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1981 Toyota Pickup 22R - No Good Fire!
- Thread starter RuralTowner
- Start date
RuralTowner
New Member
I thought Dead Post resurrection was only allowd by the original poster?
I've no desire or intention of buying "a new one". Putting up with 1 financed vehicle (that I finally managed to pay off early in February) TYVM, was more than enough. No need around here for anything more substantial particularly since I don't see any CURRENT p/u working as commuter that gets 30+ mpgs. Besides...if I wanted a REAL p/u I have a 56' Dodge that would do the job after some TLC.
Besides...a basic toolbox along with a few other items..ie vacuum gauge...feeler gauge...If I had to I could do everything short of a full disassemble & rebuild on the side of the road...no need for literally 1000s of $ worth of fancy tools needed
.
Dead post. By now that no-fire issue has long been fixed. Turned out to mainly be the coil...was REALLY hoping it wasn't the ignition module (even though that thing would have been cheaper than a modern truck brain). Could maybe have opted for another engine but that would have been overkill.
I've no desire or intention of buying "a new one". Putting up with 1 financed vehicle (that I finally managed to pay off early in February) TYVM, was more than enough. No need around here for anything more substantial particularly since I don't see any CURRENT p/u working as commuter that gets 30+ mpgs. Besides...if I wanted a REAL p/u I have a 56' Dodge that would do the job after some TLC.
Besides...a basic toolbox along with a few other items..ie vacuum gauge...feeler gauge...If I had to I could do everything short of a full disassemble & rebuild on the side of the road...no need for literally 1000s of $ worth of fancy tools needed
.
Well, if you know how to fix then why bother buying a new truck? Besides, problems like this, can be treated and avoided by regular maintenance check.
RuralTowner
New Member
The truck is alive! & NO I will not not buy a new one to replace it.
T'was Antonio's suggestion.
Besides, the issue of not getting spark has no 'maintenance' factor. You can have 100% new parts and they might fail 5minutes after running them...5 miles down the road...5 years or even decades. Used parts of course have a higher chance to fail but may last as long as new ones or even longer (ie older parts might not have been built as sub-standard as alot of modern things are). Can only deal with those as they come up. Non-electric issues are another matter entirely...these can genuinely benefit from preventative maintenance.
Just had the rings//rods done on the truck. The rod bearings still had the Aisan stamp in them still...rings were worn out...but the cylinder bore was still in very good shape and only called for standards to replace them. Yes it would have been better had I been able to spare the truck...and had the $$$ to a total overhaul and rebuild of the engine...but just the ring job has shown improvement.
Cylinder pressure had dropped to below minimum before the ring job...taking economy with it. Although it still managed to pull the truck...a 1800lb trailer and 1500+ of payload on top of that on 3 occasions. One of my weigh-ins of which all were to get rid of scrap junk at home...had a gross total of 3 tons...2 tons after unload...not bad for a 30+ year old 4-banger in need of work. The trailer was being borrowed and I wanted to get the loads hauled off BEFORE taking the truck in to be worked on. Another note on that fact is that the brakes didn't seem to really notice that weight. Braking distance...which is low to begin with (I once saw something about the truck having a somewhat infamous 60-0 stop in little more than a truck length on asphalt and no cargo...had to do that once)...an average total weight of 5500lb gross (first 2 trailer hauls) load stopping distance wasn't much more than my car's avg stopping distance. Did do one tow where I had a hell of a time...having to tow the folks 7000-8000lb 82' van home 5 miles over highway road...getting it off the inclined shoulder was a bitch though with almost no traction despite having tires with 90%+ tread.
Never said I'd buy another.Well, if you know how to fix then why bother buying a new truck? Besides, problems like this, can be treated and avoided by regular maintenance check.
T'was Antonio's suggestion.Besides, the issue of not getting spark has no 'maintenance' factor. You can have 100% new parts and they might fail 5minutes after running them...5 miles down the road...5 years or even decades. Used parts of course have a higher chance to fail but may last as long as new ones or even longer (ie older parts might not have been built as sub-standard as alot of modern things are). Can only deal with those as they come up. Non-electric issues are another matter entirely...these can genuinely benefit from preventative maintenance.
Just had the rings//rods done on the truck. The rod bearings still had the Aisan stamp in them still...rings were worn out...but the cylinder bore was still in very good shape and only called for standards to replace them. Yes it would have been better had I been able to spare the truck...and had the $$$ to a total overhaul and rebuild of the engine...but just the ring job has shown improvement.
Cylinder pressure had dropped to below minimum before the ring job...taking economy with it. Although it still managed to pull the truck...a 1800lb trailer and 1500+ of payload on top of that on 3 occasions. One of my weigh-ins of which all were to get rid of scrap junk at home...had a gross total of 3 tons...2 tons after unload...not bad for a 30+ year old 4-banger in need of work. The trailer was being borrowed and I wanted to get the loads hauled off BEFORE taking the truck in to be worked on. Another note on that fact is that the brakes didn't seem to really notice that weight.
Braking distance...which is low to begin with (I once saw something about the truck having a somewhat infamous 60-0 stop in little more than a truck length on asphalt and no cargo...had to do that once)...an average total weight of 5500lb gross (first 2 trailer hauls) load stopping distance wasn't much more than my car's avg stopping distance. Did do one tow where I had a hell of a time...having to tow the folks 7000-8000lb 82' van home 5 miles over highway road...getting it off the inclined shoulder was a bitch though with almost no traction despite having tires with 90%+ tread.
I was digging to the thread and i found this one as a very interesting post,
I wonder if you did get this figured out?
I wonder if you did get this figured out?
RuralTowner
New Member
I did. Was my coil. Though as of this post I have a overheating issue that cropped up on the way home from work. Temp should reach steady temp of about 160 +/- (this is my norm operating temp) in 5th...but kept climbing and reached 210 before I finally had to get towed the remaining 8 miles (after limping 10 in stop n go stages) to prevent permanent damage. Eliminated the thermostat as the culprit by gutting it...and did a road test but it crept above the norm and hit 190 before getting back home. Going to check the waterpump now. Last time I saw 190F (consistent) was when it'd turned out my wp fins had disintegrated...and had been driving it for weeks like that (never overheated)...had pulled the pump because the bearing was going.
Le sigh....and a couple days ago a 78 Corolla I'd FINALLY gotten road ready again went and bent 2 intake rods on me. Found out why but still. (long story).
Le sigh....and a couple days ago a 78 Corolla I'd FINALLY gotten road ready again went and bent 2 intake rods on me. Found out why but still.
(long story).
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Great for you thanks for the reply..
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