drjabberwocky
New Member
New member first post looking for advice on what I suspect is a transmission problem with my A750F tranny on my 2008 T4R Sport 4wd 4.0 v6 with 196000 miles.
BACKGROUND
I just purchased a used 2008 T4R Sport v6 that now has 196,000 for $11,300 all in with taxes and fees. It came with a 15 day 500 mile warranty. After about 45 days and 2,500 miles (drove it from Chicago, where purchased, to Colorado) I’m having what I suspect are transmission issues so I’m outside the warranty. I don’t have a strong handle on previous owners driving habits / maintenance record. It passed the dealers 21 point inspection but I fear I was sold a lemon. I now realize I shouldn’t have trusted the dealer and had a mechanic inspect it. Also I should have been tipped off by the weak warranty. I also should have it looked at as soon I started having issue. Yes yes I know I know. But that’s spilt milk, I’m stuck with it now so please don’t flame me on what I now know were stupid decisions not doing my due diligence and taking action right away. I’m a noob learning the hard way.
ISSUES
At first the car drove great and then around 2,000 or so miles from purchase it had a little trouble getting into gear, but once it was there it drove fine. Accelerating slowly seemed to help ease gear shifts at this point.
Then, it started having issues upon starting. Started fine but I had trouble getting it into gear at all. It was like I was in neutral even though I was in Drive revving without going anywhere. I had to rev it up to 3k rpm to get it moving / into gear which it kind of slid into but then it was fine. This seemed to be exacerbated by cold temps. The warmer the car, the easier to get it moving.
Soon after that it started having additional issues at speed on highway where the tachometer would shoot up by 3k rpm (from 2k up to 5k rpm’s) as if the car was in neutral before dropping and clunking into gear. I think this is called gear slipping. Didn’t happen all the time and again, seemed to work better when the car was warmed up on the road for a bit but still occasional clunky shift before warming up and sometimes when starting from a stoplight.
Now I’m at the point where the car will not get into gear at all. When I press on the accelerator, it’s as if I’m in neutral - engine revs but doesn’t go into gear / move forward at all no matter how high I rev it. I’ve tried all combinations of moving the shifter between L, 2, 3, 4 and D; 2H, 4H, 4L; CDL diff lock; warm and cold engine. Nothing. Only gear that works is reverse and even for that I have to rev it up to 3k before it starts moving backwards. In D, if I really punch it, at around 5k rpm’s I get a slight rumble from the center of the car as if something is going to happen…or explode…but then nothing. Car is on the side of the road now. Very sad.
Also, the dash is a Christmas tree. MIL/check engine light solid; MAINT light solid; Slip indicator / TRAC light solid (not affected by pressing the TRAC button); VSC light flashing (not affected by pressing VSC button).
DTC Codes
Red X light (Indicates there is a problem in one or more of the vehicle's systems. The red LED is also used to show that DTC(s) are present. DTCs are shown on the Code Reader’s LCD display. In this case, the Malfunction Indicator (“Check Engine”) lamp on the vehicle's instrument panel will light steady on.)
Solid Monitor Icons (When a Monitor icon is solid, it indicates that the associated Monitor has completed its diagnostic testing)
M - Misfire Monitor
F - Fuel System Monitor
CC - Comprehensive Component Monitor (CCM)
O - Oxygen Sensor Monitor
OH - Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor
Flashing Monitor Icons (indicates that the vehicle supports the associated Monitor, but the Monitor has not yet run its diagnostic testing)
C - Catalyst Monitor
EV - EVAP System Monitor
MIL "Freeze Frame"
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance Or Stuck Off
MIL alone (no additional text on display such as Pending, Freeze Frame, Permanent or ABS)
P0441 - Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak)
P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance / Stuck Off
P2757 - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off
MIL "Pending"
P0441 - Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 - Evap System Large Leak Detected
P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance / Stuck Off
P0776 - Pressure Control Solenoid B Perf/Off
P0781 - 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0894 - Transmission Component Slipping
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid D Perf/Off
P2757 - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off
ABS
C1201 - VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL (VSC) CANCELLED DUE TO ENGINE CONTROL MODULE FAILURE.
The dealer I bought the car from won’t help and they’re 1,200 miles away in Chicago anyway so no chance of me towing it there.
CURRENT THOUGHTS AND PLAN
I will need to get the car towed and am trying to avoid having to tow it twice, so I’m trying to figure out the right place to take it in my new home of Basalt, CO where I have no experience with the mechanics and only know a handful of people to get recommendations from.
I’ve called around and basically everyone is telling me I am going to need a rebuilt/reman transmission. I’m holding out hope that it’s something smaller, like rusted electrical / solenoids, gas cap (which I don’t think it is), ATF exchange (as I’m doubting the tranny fluid was ever drained and filled), etc. but I’m trying to make a decision about where to take it based on the worst case scenario - a dead tranny - so that I don’t have to tow it all over town and pay multiple people to drop the pan/remove the tranny to inspect it. I rather go to the right place first that can do the nuclear option if needed as well as any smaller repairs if that’s all it takes to get it moving again without getting “sold” a rebuild / reman if I don’t really need one.
It seems I’m best off NOT going to the dealer…that they will just try to sell me a reman at top dollar straight away. I’ve also heard don’t go to a general mechanic as, if it is a transmission issue, they will likely outsource it to a tranny specialist or send me to one. So, I’m thinking I’ll take it to a transmission specialist right off…which here in rural CO with a car that won’t drive forward, leaves me with only 2 options within AAA 50mile towing distance.
Both places seem to have good reputations - one is independent, has been here forever, and seems to be “the” place whereas the other is a Mister Transmission franchise but by all accounts also has a stellar reputation. But this is where things get interesting…
The independent shop says they will NOT open the transmission and instead, after diagnosing/determining the issue is inside/with the tranny and not something else, they would order a reman A750F. Why? Because they have seen too many A750 rebuilds / point repairs over the years come back after 30-50k miles with “case problems” and that there is no way to tell if the tranny is going to have a case issue or not - that it’s a crap shoot and given their experience, it’s a gamble not worth taking. They want to charge me $4,700 total - parts and labor - for the reman tranny. Eek! That’s almost half the cost of the car that has nearly 200k miles on it already. Yowzers! (PS - they charge $110/hr labor)
Now, I’ve searched extensively to see if anyone else has had case problems with the A750F/E after a rebuild and I’ve found nothing, zero, zip! So that has me wondering, is this reputable shop not actually that reputable? As in, are they just trying to sell me the most expensive option OR do they not know how to rebuild/repair an A750 correctly such that when they have done it in the past, they’ve had them come back with case issues 30k-50k miles later?
The other shop - Mister Transmission - said they will open up my tranny and if it can be repaired / rebuilt for less than a reman, that’s what they’ll do, and if not, they’ll put a reman in there. They charge $1,200 flat fee on labor but haven’t gotten back to me with part prices. Depending on prices, I’m leaning towards going with them but if “case problems” on A750 rebuilds really is a known issue, then maybe I’m better off just going to whichever will charge me the least for a reman.
Both have 12k/12month warranty but Mister Transmission ups it to 100k/3year on a reman parts and labor included.
Also - what do you think about other options like buying a used tranny and having a general mechanic install it?
QUESTIONS SUMMARY - TLDR
BACKGROUND
I just purchased a used 2008 T4R Sport v6 that now has 196,000 for $11,300 all in with taxes and fees. It came with a 15 day 500 mile warranty. After about 45 days and 2,500 miles (drove it from Chicago, where purchased, to Colorado) I’m having what I suspect are transmission issues so I’m outside the warranty. I don’t have a strong handle on previous owners driving habits / maintenance record. It passed the dealers 21 point inspection but I fear I was sold a lemon. I now realize I shouldn’t have trusted the dealer and had a mechanic inspect it. Also I should have been tipped off by the weak warranty. I also should have it looked at as soon I started having issue. Yes yes I know I know. But that’s spilt milk, I’m stuck with it now so please don’t flame me on what I now know were stupid decisions not doing my due diligence and taking action right away. I’m a noob learning the hard way.
ISSUES
At first the car drove great and then around 2,000 or so miles from purchase it had a little trouble getting into gear, but once it was there it drove fine. Accelerating slowly seemed to help ease gear shifts at this point.
Then, it started having issues upon starting. Started fine but I had trouble getting it into gear at all. It was like I was in neutral even though I was in Drive revving without going anywhere. I had to rev it up to 3k rpm to get it moving / into gear which it kind of slid into but then it was fine. This seemed to be exacerbated by cold temps. The warmer the car, the easier to get it moving.
Soon after that it started having additional issues at speed on highway where the tachometer would shoot up by 3k rpm (from 2k up to 5k rpm’s) as if the car was in neutral before dropping and clunking into gear. I think this is called gear slipping. Didn’t happen all the time and again, seemed to work better when the car was warmed up on the road for a bit but still occasional clunky shift before warming up and sometimes when starting from a stoplight.
Now I’m at the point where the car will not get into gear at all. When I press on the accelerator, it’s as if I’m in neutral - engine revs but doesn’t go into gear / move forward at all no matter how high I rev it. I’ve tried all combinations of moving the shifter between L, 2, 3, 4 and D; 2H, 4H, 4L; CDL diff lock; warm and cold engine. Nothing. Only gear that works is reverse and even for that I have to rev it up to 3k before it starts moving backwards. In D, if I really punch it, at around 5k rpm’s I get a slight rumble from the center of the car as if something is going to happen…or explode…but then nothing. Car is on the side of the road now. Very sad.
Also, the dash is a Christmas tree. MIL/check engine light solid; MAINT light solid; Slip indicator / TRAC light solid (not affected by pressing the TRAC button); VSC light flashing (not affected by pressing VSC button).
DTC Codes
Red X light (Indicates there is a problem in one or more of the vehicle's systems. The red LED is also used to show that DTC(s) are present. DTCs are shown on the Code Reader’s LCD display. In this case, the Malfunction Indicator (“Check Engine”) lamp on the vehicle's instrument panel will light steady on.)
Solid Monitor Icons (When a Monitor icon is solid, it indicates that the associated Monitor has completed its diagnostic testing)
M - Misfire Monitor
F - Fuel System Monitor
CC - Comprehensive Component Monitor (CCM)
O - Oxygen Sensor Monitor
OH - Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor
Flashing Monitor Icons (indicates that the vehicle supports the associated Monitor, but the Monitor has not yet run its diagnostic testing)
C - Catalyst Monitor
EV - EVAP System Monitor
MIL "Freeze Frame"
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance Or Stuck Off
MIL alone (no additional text on display such as Pending, Freeze Frame, Permanent or ABS)
P0441 - Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 - Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak)
P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance / Stuck Off
P2757 - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off
MIL "Pending"
P0441 - Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0455 - Evap System Large Leak Detected
P0771 - Shift Solenoid E Performance / Stuck Off
P0776 - Pressure Control Solenoid B Perf/Off
P0781 - 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0894 - Transmission Component Slipping
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid D Perf/Off
P2757 - Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off
ABS
C1201 - VEHICLE STABILITY CONTROL (VSC) CANCELLED DUE TO ENGINE CONTROL MODULE FAILURE.
The dealer I bought the car from won’t help and they’re 1,200 miles away in Chicago anyway so no chance of me towing it there.
CURRENT THOUGHTS AND PLAN
I will need to get the car towed and am trying to avoid having to tow it twice, so I’m trying to figure out the right place to take it in my new home of Basalt, CO where I have no experience with the mechanics and only know a handful of people to get recommendations from.
I’ve called around and basically everyone is telling me I am going to need a rebuilt/reman transmission. I’m holding out hope that it’s something smaller, like rusted electrical / solenoids, gas cap (which I don’t think it is), ATF exchange (as I’m doubting the tranny fluid was ever drained and filled), etc. but I’m trying to make a decision about where to take it based on the worst case scenario - a dead tranny - so that I don’t have to tow it all over town and pay multiple people to drop the pan/remove the tranny to inspect it. I rather go to the right place first that can do the nuclear option if needed as well as any smaller repairs if that’s all it takes to get it moving again without getting “sold” a rebuild / reman if I don’t really need one.
It seems I’m best off NOT going to the dealer…that they will just try to sell me a reman at top dollar straight away. I’ve also heard don’t go to a general mechanic as, if it is a transmission issue, they will likely outsource it to a tranny specialist or send me to one. So, I’m thinking I’ll take it to a transmission specialist right off…which here in rural CO with a car that won’t drive forward, leaves me with only 2 options within AAA 50mile towing distance.
Both places seem to have good reputations - one is independent, has been here forever, and seems to be “the” place whereas the other is a Mister Transmission franchise but by all accounts also has a stellar reputation. But this is where things get interesting…
The independent shop says they will NOT open the transmission and instead, after diagnosing/determining the issue is inside/with the tranny and not something else, they would order a reman A750F. Why? Because they have seen too many A750 rebuilds / point repairs over the years come back after 30-50k miles with “case problems” and that there is no way to tell if the tranny is going to have a case issue or not - that it’s a crap shoot and given their experience, it’s a gamble not worth taking. They want to charge me $4,700 total - parts and labor - for the reman tranny. Eek! That’s almost half the cost of the car that has nearly 200k miles on it already. Yowzers! (PS - they charge $110/hr labor)
Now, I’ve searched extensively to see if anyone else has had case problems with the A750F/E after a rebuild and I’ve found nothing, zero, zip! So that has me wondering, is this reputable shop not actually that reputable? As in, are they just trying to sell me the most expensive option OR do they not know how to rebuild/repair an A750 correctly such that when they have done it in the past, they’ve had them come back with case issues 30k-50k miles later?
The other shop - Mister Transmission - said they will open up my tranny and if it can be repaired / rebuilt for less than a reman, that’s what they’ll do, and if not, they’ll put a reman in there. They charge $1,200 flat fee on labor but haven’t gotten back to me with part prices. Depending on prices, I’m leaning towards going with them but if “case problems” on A750 rebuilds really is a known issue, then maybe I’m better off just going to whichever will charge me the least for a reman.
Both have 12k/12month warranty but Mister Transmission ups it to 100k/3year on a reman parts and labor included.
Also - what do you think about other options like buying a used tranny and having a general mechanic install it?
QUESTIONS SUMMARY - TLDR
- Has anyone ever heard of A750’s having “case” problems or any other type of issues after a rebuild? Is this a known “thing”
- In general, what do you recommend for a nearly 200k mile 2008 Sport…a used tranny, spot repair (if possible), rebuild, or reman A750 transmission? Also, any sense on reasonable price ranges for these options? It seems like there’s lots of disagreement on this topic.
- Overall, am I better off trying to sell the broken car “as is” and putting whatever money I can get for it along with my savings from NOT fixing it into a different car? The car has other issues - muffler is falling off, rear windshield wiper doesn’t work, has rust from Chicago winters, rear seat release/fold down button is missing, and center console (Temp, audio system) lights burnt out. Plus, I don’t have any personal attachment to it as it’s new to me.
- Any other advice / things I’m not thinking about / should consider? For example, is it worth exchanging the ATF to see if that fixes it (seems like a lot of people advise against this and it’s only delaying the inevitable)?
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