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2014 RAV4 Limited AWD Oil Change - DIY

tibadoe

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Changing your oil is one of the most important preventative maintenance (PM) services you can perform on any vehicle. At a minimum, stick with the manufacturers service schedule recommended for your vehicle. I recommend you document each and every service you perform. Keep all receipts. I print out the page from the maintenance manual pdf and record the date, mileage, and check off each service. Attach any receipts to the hard copy and file away for future reference. Along with the hard copy, I enter all data on the Toyota Owners website.

This is a step by step tutorial for someone who has never changed the oil in a 2014 RAV4 Limited AWD with a 2.5 L 4-cylinder (2AR-FE) engine. These are the steps I take and tools I use when performing a oil change. If you decide to take on this project remember to be SAFE and use COMMON SENSE. It is highly recommended that you read through this entire procedure from start to finish. Get a firm mental picture of the entire process so there will be no skipped steps or unwanted surprises. Keep in mind - this is a beginner level service thread. When completed you will have the satisfaction of completing you own oil change and knowing it was done correctly.

If you have everything ready, it only takes about 30 minutes (maybe a little longer the first time) from start to finish. I had plenty of work room with the vehicle up on ramps. You don't have to crawl way up under the engine to access the oil pan or oil filter housing. Toyota designers were nice enough to locate the items you need to access on the front side of the engine. In case you didn't know, the RAV4 uses a oil filter housing cap to hold a paper oil filter element instead of the typical spin-on oil filters. In reality, these type of oil filter housing caps are nothing to be feared and after you work with them a couple of times you may even like them. One big plus is that you have direct access to the oil filter media. This access allows you to easily see & inspect the filter paper media for any debris without cutting open the metal outer cover of a spin-on filter.

Plan ahead to make sure you have all the tools and supplies needed for a upcoming oil change:
0W-20 motor oil - 4.6 quarts
Oil Filter - OEM #04152-YZZA1
Oil Pan Drain Plug gasket (optional but recommended)
Drain Pan
12" tubing (optional but recommended)
Funnel
Shop rags
Torque Wrench (optional but recommended)
3/8" ratchet
3/8" extension
14mm socket
Toyota Oil Filter wrench tool (large)
Wheel Chocks (optional but recommended)
Car ramps (optional)




Warm up the engine by driving a few miles. Once up to normal operating temperature park making sure vehicle is level. If you are like me I use ramps in my driveway. In my instance, after pulling up on ramps vehicle is level.
Note: For automatic transmissions: Make sure selector is in park & emergency brake is applied. Manual transmissions: Make sure shifter is in gear & emergency brake is applied. Use wheel chocks for extra safety.
Open hood:


Slide under the front end and look up. You will see both the oil pan drain plug and oil filter housing cap. My oil filter housing cap is aluminum - not the stock black plastic, I switched it out on the first oil change.


Using a 3/8" ratchet and 14mm socket, remove oil pan drain bolt by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: OIL WILL BE HOT!!!! Make sure your oil drain pan is in position to catch the draining oil. Let the oil drain completely while you work on the other steps.


Insert a 3/8" extension (square end) into the 3/8" square recess in oil filter housing drain plug and remove by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: CAP MAY BE HOT!!!! A little oil may come out but not much. Keep the small rubber O-ring - it will be stuck on either the housing or plug itself - you will need it later to drain the filter housing cap. Note: The reason for removing this plug enables you to drain the oil out of the filter housing cap.


OPTIONAL: To keep from making a mess while draining oil filter housing cap, I made a "drain tube tool" that I use for each oil change. Just add a 12" piece of clear tubing (got from Lowe's) to the plastic drain fitting that comes in the oil filter box. Inside your new oil filter box you will fine a filter, gasket bag, and a roundish plastic fitting. Remove the plastic fitting and slide a piece of clear tubing on the nipple end. The tubing will direct the flow of oil into the drain pan without the mess. What you end up with should look like picture below:


Remember the small black O-ring I told you to hold onto from when you removed the oil filter housing drain plug a few steps earlier? Wipe it off and put it on the other end of the plastic drain fitting you just made in the previous step. Now you are ready to drain any oil left in the filter housing cap. Insert the plastic fitting with O-ring into the bottom of the oil filter housing cap. Just give it a slight push and it will snap into place. Make sure tubing is over the drain pan and let the oil drain until no oil is seen flowing through tubing. When cap is finished draining - proceed to the next step.


Using a ratchet, extension, and filter wrench, remove oil filter housing cap by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: MAY BE HOT I purchased the filter wrench tool off eBay by a spec racing. There are other tools available so pick one that works for you.


When the cap comes off it should look like this:


Remove the filter media and inspect for any metals or trash. If all is well inside your engine it should be clean. Dispose of used oil filter properly.


Remove large black O-ring and wipe down entire oil filter housing cap with a shop rag both inside and out. This is what the inside with no filter media looks like:


Make sure the groves for both the small O-ring and large O-ring is clean. The RED arrows indicate where the O-rings will go:




Open the clear packet located in the oil filter box that contains both O-rings:


Locate the small O-ring and coat entire O-ring with a light film of oil with your fingers. Install in the correct location on the oil filter housing cap. The small O-ring goes on the oil filter housing cap like this:


Clean off oil filter housing cap plug with shop rag. With the small O-ring still in place on cap bottom, install plug into oil filter cap by turning clockwise with your fingers. Finger tight for is fine for now.


Locate and lube the large O-ring the same way you did the small O-ring in the previous step. Being careful not to damage the large O-ring, roll it over the threads on the oil filter housing cap until it seats in the correct position as shown:


Insert the new oil filter into the oil filter housing cap. Slide it all the way in until it seats on the bottom of cap. The OEM Toyota oil filters does not have a top or bottom end - either works fine:


Clean the base where the oil filter housing cap will be installed with a shop rag:


 
Last edited:

tibadoe

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Install the clean oil filter housing cap (with new oil filter) onto base by turning clockwise by hand. Keep turning until cap is hand tightened.


Now is the time to torque down the oil filter housing cap and plug. First, tighten (clockwise) oil filter housing cap with torque wrench set to 18 ft. lbs. If you do not have a torque wrench use your best judgment. *** DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ***


Second, tighten (clockwise) oil filter housing cap plug with torque wrench set to 10 ft. lbs. using a 3/8" extension & ratchet. If you do not have a torque wrench use your best judgment. *** DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ***



Clean oil drain plug and drain plug gasket with shop rag. The gasket may be stuck on the oil pan or be on the oil plug. Replace gasket if necessary. Mine is on the pan so the plug pictured does not show the gasket.


Install oil pan drain plug into oil pan by turning clockwise. Torque down the oil pan drain plug (clockwise) with torque wrench to 25 ft. lbs. If you do not have a torque wrench use your best judgment. *** DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ***


At this point all service below the engine is complete. Remove oil drain pan and all tools from underneath vehicle.

Now we are working on the top side of the engine. Caution: Engine & components may be hot!
With hood open - remove the oil fill cap which is located on the top right hand side of the engine. It will be stamped with the recommended oil weight: SAE 0W-20. Set cap aside for now being careful not to drop it down in the engine compartment:


Remove yellow handled oil dipstick which is located on front side of engine. Set aside for now being careful not to let it fall down in the engine compartment. Danger: Do not lay metal dipstick anywhere near the battery terminals!


Place funnel securely in oil fill hole and carefully pour 4.6 quarts of SAE 0W-20 into engine.


Replace engine oil fill cap and reinsert oil dipstick. Check engine compartment and remove any tools, shop rags, oil bottles, etc. Start engine to circulate oil through engine and oil filter housing cap. Note: Oil light will be illuminated for a few seconds until oil is circulated. (If oil light stays on for longer than 15 seconds - shut engine off and check oil level) While engine is running, look under vehicle and check for any oil leaks. Pay close attention to oil filter housing, housing plug, and oil drain plug. There should be no leaks of any kind. After inspecting for oil leaks - shut engine off.

Warning: keep hands, fingers, body parts, etc. away from any moving parts, fans, and drive belts. Electric fans can cut on & off at anytime without notice.

Let vehicle sit for about 15 minutes and then check oil. This gives the oil time to flow back down into the oil pan for a correct oil level reading. Pull dipstick out of tube and wipe off with a clean shop rag. Reinsert dipstick back into tube, after a second or two pull back out and read level. Oil level should be up - but just below top dot on dipstick. For more detailed information on checking oil level: Refer to your Owners Manual.

Warning: Never operate engine with oil above or below the normal operating range on dipstick.

That it!!! You just completed a oil & filter change service on your RAV4. Congratulations!

Don't forget to reset you maintenance light. Even if it's out of sync and not illuminated now you want to reset it. Just follow a few simple steps outlined HERE.

Note: Get in the habit of checking your vehicles engine oil on a regular basis. It is a good habit to develop and can prevent unwanted engine problems down the road. For the first few days or so after changing your oil & filter, keep an eye out for any signs of leaks. When walking up to your vehicle look for any signs of leakage: puddles under engine. After pulling away from a parking spot are there any signs of oil leaks?
 
Last edited:

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
Platinum Member
1000 Posts
Wow, good write-up.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
Platinum Member
1000 Posts
Changing your oil is one of the most important preventative maintenance (PM) services you can perform on any vehicle. At a minimum, stick with the manufacturers service schedule recommended for your vehicle. I recommend you document each and every service you perform. Keep all receipts. I print out the page from the maintenance manual pdf and record the date, mileage, and check off each service. Attach any receipts to the hard copy and file away for future reference. Along with the hard copy, I enter all data on the Toyota Owners website.

This is a step by step tutorial for someone who has never changed the oil in a 2014 RAV4 Limited AWD with a 2.5 L 4-cylinder (2AR-FE) engine. These are the steps I take and tools I use when performing a oil change. If you decide to take on this project remember to be SAFE and use COMMON SENSE. It is highly recommended that you read through this entire procedure from start to finish. Get a firm mental picture of the entire process so there will be no skipped steps or unwanted surprises. Keep in mind - this is a beginner level service thread. When completed you will have the satisfaction of completing you own oil change and knowing it was done correctly.

If you have everything ready, it only takes about 30 minutes (maybe a little longer the first time) from start to finish. I had plenty of work room with the vehicle up on ramps. You don't have to crawl way up under the engine to access the oil pan or oil filter housing. Toyota designers were nice enough to locate the items you need to access on the front side of the engine. In case you didn't know, the RAV4 uses a oil filter housing cap to hold a paper oil filter element instead of the typical spin-on oil filters. In reality, these type of oil filter housing caps are nothing to be feared and after you work with them a couple of times you may even like them. One big plus is that you have direct access to the oil filter media. This access allows you to easily see & inspect the filter paper media for any debris without cutting open the metal outer cover of a spin-on filter.

Plan ahead to make sure you have all the tools and supplies needed for a upcoming oil change:
0W-20 motor oil - 4.6 quarts
Oil Filter - OEM #04152-YZZA1
Oil Pan Drain Plug gasket (optional but recommended)
Drain Pan
12" tubing (optional but recommended)
Funnel
Shop rags
Torque Wrench (optional but recommended)
3/8" ratchet
3/8" extension
14mm socket
Toyota Oil Filter wrench tool (large)
Wheel Chocks (optional but recommended)
Car ramps (optional)




Warm up the engine by driving a few miles. Once up to normal operating temperature park making sure vehicle is level. If you are like me I use ramps in my driveway. In my instance, after pulling up on ramps vehicle is level.
Note: For automatic transmissions: Make sure selector is in park & emergency brake is applied. Manual transmissions: Make sure shifter is in gear & emergency brake is applied. Use wheel chocks for extra safety.
Open hood:


Slide under the front end and look up. You will see both the oil pan drain plug and oil filter housing cap. My oil filter housing cap is aluminum - not the stock black plastic, I switched it out on the first oil change.


Using a 3/8" ratchet and 14mm socket, remove oil pan drain bolt by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: OIL WILL BE HOT!!!! Make sure your oil drain pan is in position to catch the draining oil. Let the oil drain completely while you work on the other steps.


Insert a 3/8" extension (square end) into the 3/8" square recess in oil filter housing drain plug and remove by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: CAP MAY BE HOT!!!! A little oil may come out but not much. Keep the small rubber O-ring - it will be stuck on either the housing or plug itself - you will need it later to drain the filter housing cap. Note: The reason for removing this plug enables you to drain the oil out of the filter housing cap.


OPTIONAL: To keep from making a mess while draining oil filter housing cap, I made a "drain tube tool" that I use for each oil change. Just add a 12" piece of clear tubing (got from Lowe's) to the plastic drain fitting that comes in the oil filter box. Inside your new oil filter box you will fine a filter, gasket bag, and a roundish plastic fitting. Remove the plastic fitting and slide a piece of clear tubing on the nipple end. The tubing will direct the flow of oil into the drain pan without the mess. What you end up with should look like picture below:


Remember the small black O-ring I told you to hold onto from when you removed the oil filter housing drain plug a few steps earlier? Wipe it off and put it on the other end of the plastic drain fitting you just made in the previous step. Now you are ready to drain any oil left in the filter housing cap. Insert the plastic fitting with O-ring into the bottom of the oil filter housing cap. Just give it a slight push and it will snap into place. Make sure tubing is over the drain pan and let the oil drain until no oil is seen flowing through tubing. When cap is finished draining - proceed to the next step.


Using a ratchet, extension, and filter wrench, remove oil filter housing cap by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: MAY BE HOT I purchased the filter wrench tool off eBay by a spec racing. There are other tools available so pick one that works for you.


When the cap comes off it should look like this:


Remove the filter media and inspect for any metals or trash. If all is well inside your engine it should be clean. Dispose of used oil filter properly.


Remove large black O-ring and wipe down entire oil filter housing cap with a shop rag both inside and out. This is what the inside with no filter media looks like:


Make sure the groves for both the small O-ring and large O-ring is clean. The RED arrows indicate where the O-rings will go:




Open the clear packet located in the oil filter box that contains both O-rings:


Locate the small O-ring and coat entire O-ring with a light film of oil with your fingers. Install in the correct location on the oil filter housing cap. The small O-ring goes on the oil filter housing cap like this:


Clean off oil filter housing cap plug with shop rag. With the small O-ring still in place on cap bottom, install plug into oil filter cap by turning clockwise with your fingers. Finger tight for is fine for now.


Locate and lube the large O-ring the same way you did the small O-ring in the previous step. Being careful not to damage the large O-ring, roll it over the threads on the oil filter housing cap until it seats in the correct position as shown:


Insert the new oil filter into the oil filter housing cap. Slide it all the way in until it seats on the bottom of cap. The OEM Toyota oil filters does not have a top or bottom end - either works fine:


Clean the base where the oil filter housing cap will be installed with a shop rag:

This is one of the most viewed threads on this website in 2018. Still great and valuable information!
 

tibadoe

Moderator
Staff member
Platinum Member
100 Posts
Community Leader
This is one of the most viewed threads on this website in 2018. Still great and valuable information!
Glad this is helpful to those visiting the site. I enjoy there type "DIY" write-ups. Pretty much do one for each project I tackle.
 

elites

New Member
Hi Joe,

First of all, I want to thank you with the depth of my heart for posting easy to understand step by step instructions. Today I was doing an oil change on my RAV4 2015 LE and when it was time to change the oil filter, which was extremely tight was unable to loose with my 3/8" rachet Motivx Oil Filter Wrench (dealer's GREAT work, overtighten). Bought 27 mm deep socket and 1/2" breaker bar at least open that filter housing.

I also installed ValvoMax drain valve and it's working perfectly as I pour 5 quarts oil and drain, was still dirty. look like the dealer didn't change oil nor oil filter from last 2 visits at least (the color of the oil filter you can see in the picture).

As per your instructions, I notice a small leak (1 drop after 30 seconds especially when the engine is running otherwise it doesn't show any leak) so I am planning to buy metal housing to replace this plastic one. Could you please tell me where I can get that and what's Part#? also how much does it cost? to get an idea. If I wait for couples of days to get the metal housing, will it be dangerous?

I did my research and found the following parts but your advice will be more important.

Price = $22.50
eBay - New Genuine OEM Toyota Lexus Scion Oil Filter Housing Cap Holder 15620-31060


Price = $23.33
Amazon - Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly

Price = $43.02
eBay - TOYOTA RAV4 GENUINE TOYOTA Oil Filter Housing Cap Holder 15620-31060


Price = $50.96
Toyota Parts - PLASTIC - CAP ASSEMBLY, OIL FILTER This Fits Your 2015 Toyota RAV4 LE (VIN: JTMZFREV)

My RAV4 2015 LE (VIN - JTMZFREV)

Please advice me which one I should buy? Thank so much for your help.
God bless you.

Elites



1567402388303.png
 

tibadoe

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Staff member
Platinum Member
100 Posts
Community Leader
Elites: Glad you liked the write-up.

If your RAV4 has the same engine (2.5L 4 cyl. 2AR-FE) that my 14 RAV4 Limited has -- it should fit. I used the OEM Toyota #15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Housing with no issues. What confuses me is that the eBay site says it will not fit?????? But I see others has stated it works on their 2015's.

Best thing to do is call a Toyota dealer and ask the Parts guy if the OEM Toyota #15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Housing will fit your model RAV4. Have the VIN # handy to verify.

As far as oil leaking - not a good thing. It may be a drip at idle but squirt out at a higher RPM. Either take the oil filter back off and see if the O-ring got pinched or damaged. Or keep a very close eye on the oil level until you get the issue resolved. Remember, that the seal comes from the O-ring compression -- so don't over tighten the housing or cap plug.

I am curious to what the outcome is - so keep us posted.
 

elites

New Member
Joe,
Today Part's department is closed because of Labor Day. I am going to drain the oil to an empty container then will inspect and replace the new oil filter's O-ring (both as per your write-up). Also, can I use the same oil which I drain earlier I just drove 10 miles only? Or I should put new fresh oil? What do you recommend I should pour 2 quarts to check the leak or 4.6 full capacity?

Sorry, so many questions but you are genius who can guide me.

Thanks in advance.
 

tibadoe

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Staff member
Platinum Member
100 Posts
Community Leader
If you have a clean container you can drain the oil into? If so, you should be fine using the same oil. The key is to keep the oil clean and foreign objects out. Check the O-rings for any gouges, splits, tears, or signs of being pinched. - if Ok reuse it. If O-ring is damaged - replace it. Then fill the oil back up to the full mark on the dipstick. Don't run the engine with only 2 quarts.
 

elites

New Member
I did exactly the same as you mentioned. I had doubt there must be a small pin size hole which was causing the leak.
After draining the oil in a clean container (ValvoMax made my life much easy :D) and removing the filter housing cap I removed the O-rings (they seems fine no defects). But I replaced with the new O-rings. Now the damaged part I repaired with my trusted super glue and baking soda (sorry forgot to take pictures when filling that damaged part) the final result you can see in the last 3 pictures.

No leak even a drop :) :D but I am going to order metal housing cap anyway.

One more question my storage doesn't have airconditioning so is it OK to store 5-quart oil jug (spare stock) in there or I should keep inside apartment (California is hot nowadays 95+).

Joe, I don't have words to thank you enough for your support and help. Really thank you so much for every advice you had given.

Thank you.

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tibadoe

Moderator
Staff member
Platinum Member
100 Posts
Community Leader
....................One more question my storage doesn't have airconditioning so is it OK to store 5-quart oil jug (spare stock) in there or I should keep inside apartment (California is hot nowadays 95+)................
Glad you got the leak stopped. Job well done!

Yes - it's OK to store oil in a unheated garage. I keep all my oil in my garage year round. No heat and no a/c unless I'm in there doing something and I will cut it on.
 

tibadoe

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Staff member
Platinum Member
100 Posts
Community Leader
................to replace metal housing do I need to drain all the oil or I can just drain oil from oil filter and replace plastic housing cap with the metal one?..............
Just drain the oil from the filter housing & swap them out. You will reuse the same aluminum housing cap plug that is on the plastic one. Refill the oil to bring level back up to the full mark. I check engine oil when engine is cold or after it sits for about 10+minutes.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
Platinum Member
1000 Posts
Still not? Check your spam filter.
Thank you So much Joe for your reply. I don't know why I am not getting any email notifications from this forum? will keep you posted. Thanks again
 

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