dlubiniecki
New Member
My 2004 base model Highlander has the 3.3 engine. We bought our truck new. With 100,000 current miles on the odometer, I have gone through my share of brake replacements and related issues. My goal, in doing what I did, was to see to what extent I might improve on some basics: increased braking efficiency while reducing (parts) costs. Here is what I learned. . .
To start, the OE brake parts lasted on our truck for around 55,000 miles. Around 35,000 miles were driven in around NY state. The additional 20,000 miles were driven in South Korea. Near the end of the life of the factory brakes, I was down to less than 5% on OE pads. Imagining that I could save money, I asked the Korean Dealer to replace only the brake pads. My reasoning was that the rotors showed minimal wear with only slight scaring. This was a mistake!
The Dealer complied, and my plan lasted a short 18,000 miles. . . Almost from the beginning of the install, a noticeable grinding sound surfaced - when the brakes were applied. Being the frugal person I thought myself to be, I put up with the sound - imagining that the brakes would wear in, and that the undesirable sounds would subside in time. Whereas I was right regarding the former, I was wrong (again) on the latter.
My next step was to replace all brake rotors, callipers, and pads. The high pressure brake lines, leading to the callipers appeared fine, so they were left alone. When the Dealer explained that brake parts were back ordered, and there was no telling how long it would be before parts would be available, I ordered the parts through various online locations. On this online idea, I read whatever reports and reviews available. Once again, my would-be cost saving ideas kicked in - when the lack of available OE or OEM brake parts surfaced from the Dealer.
The rational behind the above was that the d & s rotors reportedly would stop our vehicle more efficiently, compared to OE and OEM parts; the argument was that the design would move brake dust matter away from the rotor, and that drilling features would also allow the rotor cooler operating temperatures - preventing rotor warping through overheating. Whereas I observed that our truck stopped in shorter distances, I am less willing to accept the idea that rotor temperatures are much different from OE or OEM products because of less mass, due to them being drilled. By contrast there is argument that says less mass will heat up sooner than items with more mass. On the plus side of ceramic pads, they appear to have reduced brake dust. Regarding costs, the rotors were almost the same price as the OE or OEM ones. The pads were less expensive than OE or OEM pads. The callipers, however, were less than half the cost of the OE or OEM make. Further, I was not aware at the time that the non OE or OEM callipers had only three months warranty.
Two months after installing all new rotors, callipers, and pads, the right front calliper pissed out brake fluid all over the inside of the tire rim. I returned to the Korean Dealer and had him install the old right front calliper. Last month, nine months after all new brake parts were installed, the second (left-rear) calliper gave up. I returned to the Korean Dealer who installed two rear OE rotors, and a new rear OE calliper. The brakes are working fine (now).
Regarding my recommendations, the following: I do think that the OE or OEM callipers are worth hanging onto. By contrast, I am not decided on brake pads. Further, the slotted and drilled rotors may be useful. If this is not enough, I also think that is worthwhile to have new brake parts (rotors, callipers, pads) installed all around - at one time. In this way, you will have a new working system - working well at the same time. Further, you will save on nickel-and-dime installation costs (and time). There you have it. . .
To start, the OE brake parts lasted on our truck for around 55,000 miles. Around 35,000 miles were driven in around NY state. The additional 20,000 miles were driven in South Korea. Near the end of the life of the factory brakes, I was down to less than 5% on OE pads. Imagining that I could save money, I asked the Korean Dealer to replace only the brake pads. My reasoning was that the rotors showed minimal wear with only slight scaring. This was a mistake!
The Dealer complied, and my plan lasted a short 18,000 miles. . . Almost from the beginning of the install, a noticeable grinding sound surfaced - when the brakes were applied. Being the frugal person I thought myself to be, I put up with the sound - imagining that the brakes would wear in, and that the undesirable sounds would subside in time. Whereas I was right regarding the former, I was wrong (again) on the latter.
My next step was to replace all brake rotors, callipers, and pads. The high pressure brake lines, leading to the callipers appeared fine, so they were left alone. When the Dealer explained that brake parts were back ordered, and there was no telling how long it would be before parts would be available, I ordered the parts through various online locations. On this online idea, I read whatever reports and reviews available. Once again, my would-be cost saving ideas kicked in - when the lack of available OE or OEM brake parts surfaced from the Dealer.
The rational behind the above was that the d & s rotors reportedly would stop our vehicle more efficiently, compared to OE and OEM parts; the argument was that the design would move brake dust matter away from the rotor, and that drilling features would also allow the rotor cooler operating temperatures - preventing rotor warping through overheating. Whereas I observed that our truck stopped in shorter distances, I am less willing to accept the idea that rotor temperatures are much different from OE or OEM products because of less mass, due to them being drilled. By contrast there is argument that says less mass will heat up sooner than items with more mass. On the plus side of ceramic pads, they appear to have reduced brake dust. Regarding costs, the rotors were almost the same price as the OE or OEM ones. The pads were less expensive than OE or OEM pads. The callipers, however, were less than half the cost of the OE or OEM make. Further, I was not aware at the time that the non OE or OEM callipers had only three months warranty.
Two months after installing all new rotors, callipers, and pads, the right front calliper pissed out brake fluid all over the inside of the tire rim. I returned to the Korean Dealer and had him install the old right front calliper. Last month, nine months after all new brake parts were installed, the second (left-rear) calliper gave up. I returned to the Korean Dealer who installed two rear OE rotors, and a new rear OE calliper. The brakes are working fine (now).
Regarding my recommendations, the following: I do think that the OE or OEM callipers are worth hanging onto. By contrast, I am not decided on brake pads. Further, the slotted and drilled rotors may be useful. If this is not enough, I also think that is worthwhile to have new brake parts (rotors, callipers, pads) installed all around - at one time. In this way, you will have a new working system - working well at the same time. Further, you will save on nickel-and-dime installation costs (and time). There you have it. . .
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