Changed the rear differential oil for the first time in the wife's RAV4 today. Easy job that only took maybe 1 hr from start to finish. Can be done faster but I like to let the old oil drain for about 30 -45 minutes.
The manual does not state a certain mileage or time interval for changing except every 15k miles under "Special Operating Conditions". This vehicle is driven under normal conditions and I like to change out all my vehicles differential oils every 30k. The oil is not real dirty therefor the entire internal differential unit stays clean.
Get the oils warmed up - this makes them flow better when draining. A good 15 to 20 mile drive will do fine. Back vehicle up on the ramps. It just happens that this part of the driveway keeps the vehicle level while parked on the ramps:
Make sure you have all the supplies and tools for the job.
Tools needed:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" extension 3" (not pictured)
10mm hex socket
.5 qt - 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent gear oil
Catch can
Pump or Syringe
Shop Rags
Ramps (helpful but not necessary)
Wheel Chocks (safety first)
Torque Wrench (helpful but not necessary)
Cardboard or mat (helpful but not necessary):
Note: When under the vehicle you want to remove the Filler Plug first. You don't want to remove the Drain Plug first and drain all the oil only to find out you can't get the fresh oil back in.
The Fill Plug is located on the passenger side of the rear differential. It takes a 10 mm hex socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning bolt counter clockwise:
The Drain Plug is located on the driver side of the rear differential towards the bottom. It also takes a 10 mm socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning counter clockwise. Have your drain can ready and in place to catch old oil:
I recommend letting oil drain for at least 30 minutes. While draining, inspect the Drain Plug for any excessive metals on the plug. Some small shinny metals in oil and on Drain Plug is considered normal but big chunks of metal could indicate a problem. Check the old oil also and to see how it held up. If the oil is really black and thick - I recommend changing it sooner in the future. My old oil was pretty clean for the conditions and time (35k miles / 2.5 years):
When the oil has finished draining clean off both the Filler Plug & Filler Hole and the Drain Plug and Drain Hole:
Reinsert clean Drain Plug with washer and tighten down to 29 ft-lbs of torque. If you don't have a torque wrench use common sense being careful not to strip the threads. I reused both the washers since they were in good shape - I will replace washer on the next drain and fill at 60k miles.
Using my pump I refilled differential by inserting the tubing into the upper fill hole and filled until a light stream of differential oil flowed back out. It will take about a half quart to fill the rear differential when empty. Remove hose and replace with the clean Fill Plug and washer by turning clockwise. Tighten down to 28 ft-lbs of torque:
Wipe down differential of any spilled oil and recheck both plugs for correct tightness. Clean all tools and dispose of the old oil properly. Sit back and enjoy knowing your car was serviced correctly. I have not checked costs lately, but you probably saved yourself about $200 to $300 in labor, maybe more if you would have taken it to a dealer.
The manual does not state a certain mileage or time interval for changing except every 15k miles under "Special Operating Conditions". This vehicle is driven under normal conditions and I like to change out all my vehicles differential oils every 30k. The oil is not real dirty therefor the entire internal differential unit stays clean.
Get the oils warmed up - this makes them flow better when draining. A good 15 to 20 mile drive will do fine. Back vehicle up on the ramps. It just happens that this part of the driveway keeps the vehicle level while parked on the ramps:
Make sure you have all the supplies and tools for the job.
Tools needed:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" extension 3" (not pictured)
10mm hex socket
.5 qt - 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent gear oil
Catch can
Pump or Syringe
Shop Rags
Ramps (helpful but not necessary)
Wheel Chocks (safety first)
Torque Wrench (helpful but not necessary)
Cardboard or mat (helpful but not necessary):
Note: When under the vehicle you want to remove the Filler Plug first. You don't want to remove the Drain Plug first and drain all the oil only to find out you can't get the fresh oil back in.
The Fill Plug is located on the passenger side of the rear differential. It takes a 10 mm hex socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning bolt counter clockwise:
The Drain Plug is located on the driver side of the rear differential towards the bottom. It also takes a 10 mm socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning counter clockwise. Have your drain can ready and in place to catch old oil:
I recommend letting oil drain for at least 30 minutes. While draining, inspect the Drain Plug for any excessive metals on the plug. Some small shinny metals in oil and on Drain Plug is considered normal but big chunks of metal could indicate a problem. Check the old oil also and to see how it held up. If the oil is really black and thick - I recommend changing it sooner in the future. My old oil was pretty clean for the conditions and time (35k miles / 2.5 years):
When the oil has finished draining clean off both the Filler Plug & Filler Hole and the Drain Plug and Drain Hole:
Reinsert clean Drain Plug with washer and tighten down to 29 ft-lbs of torque. If you don't have a torque wrench use common sense being careful not to strip the threads. I reused both the washers since they were in good shape - I will replace washer on the next drain and fill at 60k miles.
Using my pump I refilled differential by inserting the tubing into the upper fill hole and filled until a light stream of differential oil flowed back out. It will take about a half quart to fill the rear differential when empty. Remove hose and replace with the clean Fill Plug and washer by turning clockwise. Tighten down to 28 ft-lbs of torque:
Wipe down differential of any spilled oil and recheck both plugs for correct tightness. Clean all tools and dispose of the old oil properly. Sit back and enjoy knowing your car was serviced correctly. I have not checked costs lately, but you probably saved yourself about $200 to $300 in labor, maybe more if you would have taken it to a dealer.
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