RAV4 - Transfer Case (AWD Models) Oil Change - DIY
Changed the transfer case oil for the first time in the wife's RAV4. Easy job that only took maybe 1 hr from start to finish. Can be done faster but I like to let the old oil drain for about 30 minutes.
The Toyota manual does not state a certain mileage or time interval for changing except every 15k miles under "Special Operating Conditions". This vehicle is driven under normal conditions and I like to change out all my vehicles differential oils every 30k - 35k. The oil should not be real dirty therefor the entire internal differential unit should stay clean.
Get the oil warmed up - this makes them flow better when draining. A good 15 to 20 mile drive will do fine. Pull the vehicle up on the ramps. It just happens that this part of the driveway keeps the vehicle level while parked on the ramps:
Make sure you have all the supplies and tools for the job:
Tools needed:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" extension 3" (not pictured)
10mm hex socket
.5 qt - 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent gear oil
Catch can
Pump or Syringe
Shop Rags
Ramps (helpful but not necessary)
Wheel Chocks (safety first)
Torque Wrench (helpful but not necessary)
Cardboard or mat (helpful but not necessary)
Note: When under the vehicle you want to remove the Filler Plug first. You don't want to remove the Drain Plug first and drain all the oil only to find out you can't get the fresh oil back in.
I went under the vehicle from the front end just like I was changing the motor oil & filter. The transfer case is located to the left of the oil pan. Easy to spot since the driveshaft runs from it to the rear differential. The Fill Plug is located on the drivers side of the transfer case. It takes a 10 mm hex socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning bolt counter clockwise:
The Drain Plug is located on the bottom of the transfer case. It also takes a 10 mm hex socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning counter clockwise. Have your drain can ready and in place to catch old oil. Be careful not to burn yourself on the exhaust pipe:
I recommend letting oil drain for at least 30 minutes. While draining, inspect the Drain Plug for any excessive metals on the plug. Some small shinny metals in oil and on Drain Plug is considered normal but big chunks of metal could indicate a problem. Check the old oil also and to see how it held up. If the oil is really black and thick - I recommend changing it sooner in the future. My old oil was very clean for the conditions and time (35k miles / 2.5 years). Here are the plugs side by side after getting cleaned up:
Now that the old oil has finished draining, wipe down the Filler Hole & Drain Hole. Reinsert clean Drain Plug with washer and tighten down to 28 ft-lbs of torque. If you don't have a torque wrench use common sense being careful not to strip the threads. I reused both the washers since they were in good shape - I will replace washer on the next drain and fill at about 70k miles.
Using a pump of your choice, insert tube into Filler Hole and pump new oil in until oil starts to drain back out. Should take about .5 of a quart. Owners Manual calls for .49 of a quart. Remove hose and replace with the clean Fill Plug and washer by turning clockwise. Tighten down to 28 ft-lbs of torque:
Wipe down transfer case of any spilled oil and recheck both plugs for correct tightness. Clean all tools and dispose of the old oil properly. Sit back and enjoy knowing your car was serviced correctly. I have not checked costs lately, but you probably saved yourself about $100 to $300 in labor, maybe more if you would have taken it to a dealer.
Changed the transfer case oil for the first time in the wife's RAV4. Easy job that only took maybe 1 hr from start to finish. Can be done faster but I like to let the old oil drain for about 30 minutes.
The Toyota manual does not state a certain mileage or time interval for changing except every 15k miles under "Special Operating Conditions". This vehicle is driven under normal conditions and I like to change out all my vehicles differential oils every 30k - 35k. The oil should not be real dirty therefor the entire internal differential unit should stay clean.
Get the oil warmed up - this makes them flow better when draining. A good 15 to 20 mile drive will do fine. Pull the vehicle up on the ramps. It just happens that this part of the driveway keeps the vehicle level while parked on the ramps:
Make sure you have all the supplies and tools for the job:
Tools needed:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" extension 3" (not pictured)
10mm hex socket
.5 qt - 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent gear oil
Catch can
Pump or Syringe
Shop Rags
Ramps (helpful but not necessary)
Wheel Chocks (safety first)
Torque Wrench (helpful but not necessary)
Cardboard or mat (helpful but not necessary)
Note: When under the vehicle you want to remove the Filler Plug first. You don't want to remove the Drain Plug first and drain all the oil only to find out you can't get the fresh oil back in.
I went under the vehicle from the front end just like I was changing the motor oil & filter. The transfer case is located to the left of the oil pan. Easy to spot since the driveshaft runs from it to the rear differential. The Fill Plug is located on the drivers side of the transfer case. It takes a 10 mm hex socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning bolt counter clockwise:
The Drain Plug is located on the bottom of the transfer case. It also takes a 10 mm hex socket and some muscle to remove. Break it loose by turning counter clockwise. Have your drain can ready and in place to catch old oil. Be careful not to burn yourself on the exhaust pipe:
I recommend letting oil drain for at least 30 minutes. While draining, inspect the Drain Plug for any excessive metals on the plug. Some small shinny metals in oil and on Drain Plug is considered normal but big chunks of metal could indicate a problem. Check the old oil also and to see how it held up. If the oil is really black and thick - I recommend changing it sooner in the future. My old oil was very clean for the conditions and time (35k miles / 2.5 years). Here are the plugs side by side after getting cleaned up:
Now that the old oil has finished draining, wipe down the Filler Hole & Drain Hole. Reinsert clean Drain Plug with washer and tighten down to 28 ft-lbs of torque. If you don't have a torque wrench use common sense being careful not to strip the threads. I reused both the washers since they were in good shape - I will replace washer on the next drain and fill at about 70k miles.
Using a pump of your choice, insert tube into Filler Hole and pump new oil in until oil starts to drain back out. Should take about .5 of a quart. Owners Manual calls for .49 of a quart. Remove hose and replace with the clean Fill Plug and washer by turning clockwise. Tighten down to 28 ft-lbs of torque:
Wipe down transfer case of any spilled oil and recheck both plugs for correct tightness. Clean all tools and dispose of the old oil properly. Sit back and enjoy knowing your car was serviced correctly. I have not checked costs lately, but you probably saved yourself about $100 to $300 in labor, maybe more if you would have taken it to a dealer.
