-
FREE SPEECH SOCIAL MEDIA
If you're looking for a Free Speech Social Media site, check out Blabbook.com
- NO FACT CHECKING - NO SHADOW BANNING - NO POINT OF VIEW CENSORSHIP
Possible project truck ~ 1993 Toyota Pickup 4WD Small Cab 3.0 v6
- Thread starter Knic
- Start date
Knic
Active Member
Just trying to get things straightened out. I noticed the heater core had a melt down. Not sure what caused it, but I tore the dash apart to make sure it wasn’t a giant ball of melted plastic underneath. Didn’t fix the issue yet. I want to wait until I find new plastic before I replace the heater core, blower motor, blower motor resister and relay. To make it worth it. I took some of the parts with surface rust, knocked it off, and painted them
Attachments
What? How's it smell?
Knic
Active Member
It was like that when I got it. I’m sure when it happened it was horrible.
Hard to go wrong for $500. Does it run & drive OK, or are you starting from a non-running truck? BTW- Rock Auto is a reasonable source for parts. I wound up buying quite a bit of stuff from them for my 3 old Toyota trucks (all gone now).
Be sure to check eBay prices for those master cylinders. I found a new, OEM clutch master cylinder for under $20 on eBay. Made in Japan by Aisin (IIRC) or whomever the OEM was. Visually identical and it installed perfectly & easily. No more leaks! Truly a smokin deal.
May as well change the clutch slave cylinder too. Easy to change and you will only have to bleed the system once.
Also must mention that if you have no repair history to start from, you may wish to change the timing belt & water pump. I've seen compete kits that include both, plus tensioner and all gaskets. Would hate for you to drop lots of $$$$ on the truck only to have it commit suicide when the belt breaks.
May as well change the clutch slave cylinder too. Easy to change and you will only have to bleed the system once.
Also must mention that if you have no repair history to start from, you may wish to change the timing belt & water pump. I've seen compete kits that include both, plus tensioner and all gaskets. Would hate for you to drop lots of $$$$ on the truck only to have it commit suicide when the belt breaks.
Knic
Active Member
I’ve already swapped out the clutch slave. There was no clutch and I think that’s why. Once I get it to where it runs and drive from A to B I’ll probably do some maintenance like water pump and belt. Although once I get the truck in good shape I think it will get a 3.4. I practically live on eBay I’m always looking for stuff.
Knic
Active Member
As you can see I'm not the most active member. Any who I've been bouncing back and forth between hobbies and working 7 days a week. Currently trying to shift my focus to this truck, at least get it to the point, where I can drive it until the wheels fall off. (Its rusty so let's hope that doesn't happen) I'm waiting to get the brakes swapped out I have all the parts, but I also have no room in the garage and an HOA that I try to avoid. So unfortunately I will take it to my buddies shop the first of March for the brakes. Currently trying to source an evaporator box one so I can replace that along with the evaporator, heater core, blower motor, blower motor relay and do a coolant flush.
Attachments
Last edited:
Knic
Active Member
Alright, things slowed way down with everything going on right now. First I wanted to find out why I couldn’t get a decent brakes. I Messed with the brakes for an insane amount of time. I seriously spent two hours at one point, bleeding the brakes from the same spot. Turned out to be the proportioning valve, I only cracked the bleeder screw open once and the brakes where capable of throwing you through the windshield. Unfortunately, that was after I replaced Brake booster, brake booster check valve, brake calipers, brake pads and rotors along with new drums and shoes in the back. The next issue I wanted to address was the insane leaking from the valve covers, P/S pump and cam plugs. After taking everything apart I discovered the valve covers needed replaced as well. I cleaned all mating surfaces while I waited for the new valve covers to come in. Also, while everything was apart I decided to delete the EGR system. I only had one stud snap off while taking off the pair valve, luckily I was able to get the broken piece out. I ran a thread cleaning tool and used a bolt in replace of the stud. After the egr delete was finished, I pulled the cam plugs and installed the new ones with some RTV. I then put everything back together. The P/S rebuild kit I got was the wrong one, being impatient I decided to just order a reman. Never a good idea lol appears I might already be having a leak. I’ll clean everything tomorrow and see what happens.
Attachments
I have a rolling chasis for a 1993 Toyota with locker front and rear, the pig (diff) is gone from the rear but everything else is still on it. In the pacific northwest if you need a frame, I want 3-400 for the unit as is. Have pictures if your interested and no rust, solid chasis.
weston customs
Member
they can be alot of work but worth it parts can be found but you need to spend fair amount of time online parts geek rock auto north west off road ant toyota over stock .com are few good ones
weston customs
Member
dam good deal
weston customs
Member
for learning by a cheep wire feed at harbor fright or northern tool and practice then by a miller
Related Content You Might Like: