Missing spark on #1 spark plug in my 1988 3VZE

[keatonsmitty217]

Long backstory skip to *** for the core issue.
-A few months back, on a trip from WA to MT, I overheated my engine badly going up the Columbia river basin, pouring out coolant and so on. I took it easy for the next 100 miles because my radiator was leaking from a pinhole in the top. I stopped to check again and the pinhole was plugged and done leaking(without my intervention). I drove on without issue until I stopped again, once I tried driving, I had very little power, so I checked the engine again and found a vacuum leak between the intake plenum and manifold, with some RTV it was fixed, ran like a top again. I drove another 100 miles or so and stopped to take a 20 minute break, when I started it back up it was fine, but as I was driving, there was a pop from the engine bay and I lost most of my power again. I limped it the rest of the way to my hometown with a horrendous misfire. once it had cooled down again I replaced both of the gaskets for the intake manifold to head, and the plenum to manifold gasket, this didnt fix the issue. after the truck sat for a few months(wouldnt run) we came back at it and found a minorly blown head gasket on the drivers side(not super low compression, but still too low). We spent a few days redoing the head gasket and cleaning up cams, put the truck back together and it still barely ran, after working with the distributor to change timing, it still barely ran.
***
We found out that there was no spark going to the #1 spark plug( on the first rotation of the motor it sparks, but then stops--seen with timing light) we tossed a new rotor, distributor cap, distributor and spark plug wires at it without anything changing, we checked the coil, which is still within spec, swapped for an extra ECU we had around, and still nothing getting to the #1 spark plug, any ideas for what might be causing this issue?

Any help is much appreciated

 

[69FJ-2.4LTRTDIESEL]

Replace the plugs ? A spark plug fires when the ground is lost (points open) so the potential built up in the coil uses the fastest path of least resistance to ground which is through the head via the gapped spark plug. You should also check the engine ground strap/wire to the battery/frame grounding point. Quick check use a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the engine head & see if you get fire of the plug.

 

[fxbrokersCego]

И там построение синтаксиса немного сложней, зато дает больше возможностей. ota-doya Динамическое ценообразование — это адаптация цен к обстоятельствам рынка в реальном времени. rspcb По умолчанию установлено значение в 80 символов — негласное правило читаемости текста на экране. eservices

 

[Bradley40504]

Long backstory skip to *** for the core issue.
-A few months back, on a trip from WA to MT, I overheated my engine badly going up the Columbia river basin, pouring out coolant and so on. I took it easy for the next 100 miles because my radiator was leaking from a pinhole in the top. I stopped to check again and the pinhole was plugged and done leaking(without my intervention). I drove on without issue until I stopped again, once I tried driving, I had very little power, so I checked the engine again and found a vacuum leak between the intake plenum and manifold, with some RTV it was fixed, ran like a top again. I drove another 100 miles or so and stopped to take a 20 minute break, when I started it back up it was fine, but as I was driving, there was a pop from the engine bay and I lost most of my power again. I limped it the rest of the way to my hometown with a horrendous misfire. once it had cooled down again I replaced both of the gaskets for the intake manifold to head, and the plenum to manifold gasket, this didnt fix the issue. after the truck sat for a few months(wouldnt run) we came back at it and found a minorly blown head gasket on the drivers side(not super low compression, but still too low). We spent a few days redoing the head gasket and cleaning up cams, put the truck back together and it still barely ran, after working with the distributor to change timing, it still barely ran.
***
We found out that there was no spark going to the #1 spark plug( on the first rotation of the motor it sparks, but then stops--seen with timing light) we tossed a new rotor, distributor cap, distributor and spark plug wires at it without anything changing, we checked the coil, which is still within spec, swapped for an extra ECU we had around, and still nothing getting to the #1 spark plug, any ideas for what might be causing this issue?

Any help is much appreciated

If you try this setup, take the spark plug for 1 and connect to the spark cable wire as usual, then ground out the metal of the spark plug maybe with a jumper cable to chassis ground or the - post on the battery, you can hold it and see if it sparks in the open air? This is helpful to know. it must have no points right? inductive pickup in the distributor? Then a crankshaft position sensor that tells the ECU when to fire the spark? IDK if that model burns up the CPS or not; may consider trying another distributor just to take that out of the equation if you can borrow one?

its far easier to make a spark in the open air than under pressure in the cylinder