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Lost in the Sauce...22R
- Thread starter coffee_brake
- Start date
If you think the rotor is looking ugly it likely needs replaced. Usually just as cheap to put a new one on as having a old one turned on the lathe. Generally they are not warped but just worn with a heavy ridge from wear. I too am ordering some tie rod ends today...was putting winter boots on my truck yesterday and noticed some wear....there are some awfully cheap kits on ebay but I never order the cheapest. I have to do some brand shopping Prices really vary,,locally a shop charged me $150.00 for a moog lower ball joint on a 95 4runner 7 yearas ago...I needed the truck now and paid,,the ball joint failed within a year so not worth the money at all,,,that same joint in the US can be had for $50.00
ttp://www.ebay.com/itm/SUSPENSION-TOYOTA-Pickup-RUNNER-4WD-90-95-ENDS-BALL-ARM/160578832795?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27538%26meid%3Df66032fb43304cd5b84a757436057f54%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11353%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D230810279704&rt=nc
ttp://www.ebay.com/itm/SUSPENSION-TOYOTA-Pickup-RUNNER-4WD-90-95-ENDS-BALL-ARM/160578832795?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27538%26meid%3Df66032fb43304cd5b84a757436057f54%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D11353%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D230810279704&rt=nc
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The local auto supply guy said if there wasn't slack in the ball joints, to leave them be.
The rotors, like you said, are $20 each, and $11 to turn. So I got two new rotors, replaced the broken stud, and put on new brake lines. I had to do some modifying on the brake line on one end, they don't fit the mounts on the truck the way they come. If I didnt' have a vice and files, I'd have been very angry about that.
I still have to put on the new idler arm but the front suspension and brakes should be doing much, much better now.
The worse part is, I've been taking my time and learning as I go, and getting around on my motorcycle with the saddle bags (the one in my avatar.) Well yesterday it blew a coolant hose (i hope) so I had to limp it home and now I'm almost stranded..and it's raining....
The rotors, like you said, are $20 each, and $11 to turn. So I got two new rotors, replaced the broken stud, and put on new brake lines. I had to do some modifying on the brake line on one end, they don't fit the mounts on the truck the way they come. If I didnt' have a vice and files, I'd have been very angry about that.
I still have to put on the new idler arm but the front suspension and brakes should be doing much, much better now.
The worse part is, I've been taking my time and learning as I go, and getting around on my motorcycle with the saddle bags (the one in my avatar.) Well yesterday it blew a coolant hose (i hope) so I had to limp it home and now I'm almost stranded..and it's raining....
New lines, new rotors, fresh DOT 3. De-glazed the pads because they're almost new.
The pedal still plunges to the floor before the brakes apply, and it's worse than ever, since the pads haven't bedded to the new rotors yet.
The left side is smoking, it's so hot. Seems to be calipers, the hubs are pretty hot but I can touch them.
I've removed the wheel to let everything cool down in there.
Was it required to put on new pads with the new rotors?
I'm pretty frustrated. I've followed the instructions and read the book and I don't know why something's binding up under there.
The pedal still plunges to the floor before the brakes apply, and it's worse than ever, since the pads haven't bedded to the new rotors yet.
The left side is smoking, it's so hot. Seems to be calipers, the hubs are pretty hot but I can touch them.
I've removed the wheel to let everything cool down in there.
Was it required to put on new pads with the new rotors?
I'm pretty frustrated. I've followed the instructions and read the book and I don't know why something's binding up under there.
I dont remember if you bled the brakes previously, with the new parts installed Im sure you have now.
That leaves the only culprit being the master cylinder or vacume actuator.
Are you positive theres no vacume leaks in the system?
And when bleeding the brakes did you bleed rear and the brake bypass valve?
That leaves the only culprit being the master cylinder or vacume actuator.
Are you positive theres no vacume leaks in the system?
And when bleeding the brakes did you bleed rear and the brake bypass valve?
Haven't gotten to the back brakes yet,
and have no idea how to service the vacuum actuator. Manual only tells how to remove it and take it apart.
I don't know how to tell if there are vacuum leaks.
and have no idea how to service the vacuum actuator. Manual only tells how to remove it and take it apart.
I don't know how to tell if there are vacuum leaks.
Checking for vacuumleaks is easy, start the engine, while its running spray carb cleaner around the base of the carb and around the vacuum hoses and fittings.
As soon as you hear the engine stumble youve found a vacuum leak.
Be careful not to spray the cleaner on hot exhaust parts though, never seen it start a fire but theres always a first time.
Outside of a shop equipped with a vacuum pump and hydraulic flow bench I dont know of a good way to check the master cylinder and booster/actuator.
As soon as you hear the engine stumble youve found a vacuum leak.
Be careful not to spray the cleaner on hot exhaust parts though, never seen it start a fire but theres always a first time.
Outside of a shop equipped with a vacuum pump and hydraulic flow bench I dont know of a good way to check the master cylinder and booster/actuator.
Wait, you're saying vacuum from the carburetor is connected to the brakes?
I'm aware of how to find a vacuum leak at the carburetor, and I do suspect that given the condition of the vacuum hoses. I was just concentrating on getting the brakes right before I tackled the carb.
I'm aware of how to find a vacuum leak at the carburetor, and I do suspect that given the condition of the vacuum hoses. I was just concentrating on getting the brakes right before I tackled the carb.
Previously you said truck pulled hard to right and now your left brake is smoking. As I suggested earlier could be a sticking caliper. Some folks rebuild them,,,I never have. Calipers are odd how they can start to stick even on a vehicle that is in daily use. I found this out with a brand x car.
I think you might be right. I noticed as I was bleeding the system that the left caliper required a different wrench to loosen the bleed valve. Maybe one caliper has been replaced already.
AND, I remember that when I pulled the old brake lines, the one on the right had muddy funk in it, whereas the left had dirty fluid but not mud.
If the truck is shut off while moving and the brakes applied, it takes a lot of muscle to make the brakes work. So this means the vacuum assist thing is working right?
But the pedal is still going almost to the floor before the brakes actuate. According to the manual, this might be because one of the plungers for the MC isn't working.
I was trying to get the brakes up to snuff first the front, then the rear. But if they are linked side to side, then I'm not sure what to do next.
AND, I remember that when I pulled the old brake lines, the one on the right had muddy funk in it, whereas the left had dirty fluid but not mud.
If the truck is shut off while moving and the brakes applied, it takes a lot of muscle to make the brakes work. So this means the vacuum assist thing is working right?
But the pedal is still going almost to the floor before the brakes actuate. According to the manual, this might be because one of the plungers for the MC isn't working.
I was trying to get the brakes up to snuff first the front, then the rear. But if they are linked side to side, then I'm not sure what to do next.
The manifold and carb are where you get your vacuum boost, if its got a leak anywhere in the vacuum system it can affect the brake booster.
Hearing your finding gunk in the brake system Id recommend a flush of the system prior to placing any more parts on it.If you dont have one you might want to invest in something like a "Motive" brake bleeder, itll draw out all the old fluid and hopefully any gunk still in there, can be done with one person and a lot less effort than continually pumping the brakes.
Hearing your finding gunk in the brake system Id recommend a flush of the system prior to placing any more parts on it.If you dont have one you might want to invest in something like a "Motive" brake bleeder, itll draw out all the old fluid and hopefully any gunk still in there, can be done with one person and a lot less effort than continually pumping the brakes.
Flushed it last night before the unsuccessful test drive.
There are two fluid reservoirs under the hood. The larger one is where I filled fresh fluid for the flush, but how could I flush the smaller of the two?
There are two fluid reservoirs under the hood. The larger one is where I filled fresh fluid for the flush, but how could I flush the smaller of the two?
Oh, maybe that's it. No wonder all the bleeding in the world didn't get that clean!
Okey dokey. I pulled the "hot" caliper and in the process of seeing if it was stuck, pumped the piston right out of it. Evidently not stuck.
Got a rebuild kit, rebuilt it, and the guy at the parts store explained what y'all were saying about adjusting the master cylinder pushrod that comes from the pedal. I adjusted that a LOT to what I figured was right, bled the system again, and...
...well the caliper isn't getting hot any more but the brakes are still behaving exactly like they did before I started. Weak, scary weak, and the pedal goes almost to the floor before I get any stopping at all.
So I've spent a pile of cash and bled all over the darned truck and cussed till the neighbors took their children indoors, and the only thing I fixed was the sloppy steering. But now I know what's NOT wrong, and that's a big help as I tackle the back brakes.
Got a rebuild kit, rebuilt it, and the guy at the parts store explained what y'all were saying about adjusting the master cylinder pushrod that comes from the pedal. I adjusted that a LOT to what I figured was right, bled the system again, and...
...well the caliper isn't getting hot any more but the brakes are still behaving exactly like they did before I started. Weak, scary weak, and the pedal goes almost to the floor before I get any stopping at all.
So I've spent a pile of cash and bled all over the darned truck and cussed till the neighbors took their children indoors, and the only thing I fixed was the sloppy steering. But now I know what's NOT wrong, and that's a big help as I tackle the back brakes.
Well,,,betcha don't usually have this much fun with your clothes on! Good to hear the steering is fixed,,,,got to be able to keep it between the guardrails.
We must be missing something simple here. Should i assume you have also been bleeding the rear brakes? And, maybe someone more familiar with your vintage of truck,,,does the truck have the brake valve over the rear axle that has to be bled before bleeding the rear brakes. If it does it will look something like a brake cylinder with line in and 2 lines out and a bleeder nut.
We must be missing something simple here. Should i assume you have also been bleeding the rear brakes? And, maybe someone more familiar with your vintage of truck,,,does the truck have the brake valve over the rear axle that has to be bled before bleeding the rear brakes. If it does it will look something like a brake cylinder with line in and 2 lines out and a bleeder nut.
I don't have enough jackstands to get at all four wheels!
I haven't gone near the back brakes yet. I was assuming the front were a system, and the back were a system, linked together. But doing some research, it seems maybe it's left and right, not front and back.
At least I can use it now.
This was just amazing: the truck needed more work than I thought, so I was using my big touring bike with the luggage on it to get parts and groceries. Then that bike blew a coolant hose while getting parts for the truck. So I was using my last set of wheels, a little sport bike with the crappy fabric saddlebags. Then last night the darned saddlebags fell off somewhere in the city! I was down to a little backpack to carry stuff and we had no eggs and no laundry soap. I was seriously wondering what else could go wrong. Then I found the saddlebags on the curb, unmolested. Thank goodness. I had to WALK to the polls to vote yesterday.
I haven't gone near the back brakes yet. I was assuming the front were a system, and the back were a system, linked together. But doing some research, it seems maybe it's left and right, not front and back.
At least I can use it now.
This was just amazing: the truck needed more work than I thought, so I was using my big touring bike with the luggage on it to get parts and groceries. Then that bike blew a coolant hose while getting parts for the truck. So I was using my last set of wheels, a little sport bike with the crappy fabric saddlebags. Then last night the darned saddlebags fell off somewhere in the city! I was down to a little backpack to carry stuff and we had no eggs and no laundry soap. I was seriously wondering what else could go wrong. Then I found the saddlebags on the curb, unmolested. Thank goodness. I had to WALK to the polls to vote yesterday.
You have to bleed the whole system.. start with the right rear wheel first then on to left rear wheel, right front wheel and then to front left wheel. As you can see you are starting to bleed the furthest brake cylinder from your master cylinder and working your way to the master cylinder.
Walking is good for the soul/sole
you really should get yourself a haynes or chiltons manual for your truck,,,sometimes one paragraph could save you hours of frustration.
Walking is good for the soul/sole
you really should get yourself a haynes or chiltons manual for your truck,,,sometimes one paragraph could save you hours of frustration.
I have a Haynes. It didn't say anything about the bleeding order. It jumps from model to model, year to year, 2WD to 4WD so much that I can't easily follow any instructions in it.
I wish I'd known the order to bleed the brakes from the start.
I wish I'd known the order to bleed the brakes from the start.
Your bleeding error is not a uncommon mistake. There are plenty of "youtubes" on everything automotive! The haynes is a bit feeble compared to the more concise chiltons for the 4th gen toyota truck. Readers Digest produced this book 3 years ago,,it is excellent. Covers all basic repairs. Lots of pictures and edited for someone who has never seen a car before. I had one but lost it...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Ca...anuals_Literature&hash=item1e944fc3b2&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Ca...anuals_Literature&hash=item1e944fc3b2&vxp=mtr
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