Instrument Cluster Intermittently Goes Out in 2016 Sequoia

[bobinyelm]

2016 Sequoia

Driving, the cluster just winks out completely, sometimes for a couple of minutes, and other times for 10 minutes or so. It always comes back on whether later in teh drive, or when it is started the next time for use.

The Master Warning is on, but no lights to say WHY the master caution warning is on. No check-engine-light or anything.

Any hints appreciated because I didn't see this symptom in searches-
Bob

 

[toyotafan]

What's going out exactly? The illumination or the actual digital readings?

 

[bobinyelm]

Sorry, I should have been more specific.

It's just the background lighting. I didn't know if maybe it's a somewhat common problem like a faulty brightness control (probably not a simple rheostat like the old days) or a particular junction, ground, or harness that might ne "known" by a few folks who had the similar problem.

 

[toyotafan]

I've not heard of this as an issue. I had a 99 Ford f150 that had this issue happen, turns out it was a defective solder joint on the board in the instrument cluster and I fixed it by taking the dash apart and resoldering those joints.

Any pattern to this? Methinks the first step is to look under the dash for anything loose.

 

[bobinyelm]

Yep.

I've re-soldered joints on relays and clocks and it would not shock me if this is the problem.

I'll start poking and prodding and pulling at things, and maybe it will come to the cluster board. I'd prefer not, but it will be what it will be.

Thanks for the suggestions
Bob

 

[toyotafan]

I did a bunch of searching, couldn't find anything on this, that's why I'm thinking it's a connection issue. Keep us updated.

 

[rickc5]

Yeah, there's a poor connection somewhere. I've soldered two Toyota clocks (in the overhead consoles) as they almost always fail after a few years. Only thing to do is keep looking....

 

[bobinyelm]

Ye, I just resoldered a couple of known bad solder joints in the clock on my Honda CR-V. So many failures there, there are folkd on ebay who offer to do it for $14 postage included lifetime warranty. I opened mine up and with a 6X Loupe the cracked solder was plainly visible. Also fixed a Volvo overdrive cut-out relay years back, and also my Dodge Ram fuse box board, and some BMW cluster boards from the 1980s with bad joints and corrosion.

 

[toyotafan]

Ye, I just resoldered a couple of known bad solder joints in the clock on my Honda CR-V. So many failures there, there are folkd on ebay who offer to do it for $14 postage included lifetime warranty. I opened mine up and with a 6X Loupe the cracked solder was plainly visible. Also fixed a Volvo overdrive cut-out relay years back, and also my Dodge Ram fuse box board, and some BMW cluster boards from the 1980s with bad joints and corrosion.

Keep us updated. Im interested in seeing if you have anything loose that just needs to be tighter.

 

[bobinyelm]

If I am successful, I certainly will!

 

[toyotafan]

If I am successful, I certainly will!

Take pics along the way too please. You might solve someone else's headache one day.

 

[toyotafan]

I found the original thread from 2003 that helped my fix my '99 Ford F150 problem. Last Ford I ever owned actually.

Intermittent Odometer - A Repair - F150online Forums

Articles & How-To's - Intermittent Odometer - A Repair - I have recently joined this forum although I have enjoyed reading the messages here for several months. Thanks to those that have contributed to these boards you have helped me find a repair a couple of problems I have had with my truck...

www.f150online.com

 

[bobinyelm]

Yep, cracked solder joints are the bane of otherwise reliable electronics.

Sometimes I wish our vehicles were not SO electronic. If we could combine the better mechanical reliability of modern engines (better lubricants and fuels are maybe part of that) with the simplicity of older vehicles (fewer microprocessors and modules on a CAN Bus that run everything) maybe we could have more user friendly vehicles.

I have a friend with an import shop that sees more and more vehicles with "minor" electronics problems that result in bills exceed what a full engine rebuild would have cost not that long ago. Things like modules that control alternators that tailor the charge that save fuel (add maybe under .05 mpg), or variable valve timing phaser mechanisms that cost $800 per camshaft. Like that F-150 cluster they offer some improvements when they are working, but can be costly to repair for non-technical owners. How about a $1300 starter requiring removal of the intake manifold, and replacement of $16 worth of single-use aluminum stretch-bolts, or $2700 for a dealer-installed new oil pan gasket on the AWD BMW because it involved drive axles that go through the oil pan, that also requires the disconnect of the front suspension so the entire front subframe can be dropped enough to access the gasket?

Oh well, it's reality. Uggh!

 

[toyotafan]

Yep, cracked solder joints are the bane of otherwise reliable electronics.

Sometimes I wish our vehicles were not SO electronic. If we could combine the better mechanical reliability of modern engines (better lubricants and fuels are maybe part of that) with the simplicity of older vehicles (fewer microprocessors and modules on a CAN Bus that run everything) maybe we could have more user friendly vehicles.

I have a friend with an import shop that sees more and more vehicles with "minor" electronics problems that result in bills exceed what a full engine rebuild would have cost not that long ago. Things like modules that control alternators that tailor the charge that save fuel (add maybe under .05 mpg), or variable valve timing phaser mechanisms that cost $800 per camshaft. Like that F-150 cluster they offer some improvements when they are working, but can be costly to repair for non-technical owners. How about a $1300 starter requiring removal of the intake manifold, and replacement of $16 worth of single-use aluminum stretch-bolts, or $2700 for a dealer-installed new oil pan gasket on the AWD BMW because it involved drive axles that go through the oil pan, that also requires the disconnect of the front suspension so the entire front subframe can be dropped enough to access the gasket?

Oh well, it's reality. Uggh!

Im with you on that. It's a different topic but you should read my thread on technology and health. Since I've balanced my tech/non-tech lives better I'm a lot healthier.

Technology & Health Discussion | EMF, Blue Light and cold thermogenesis

Just curious how everyone here thinks about some of the technology-related debates, such as EMF radiation, blue light, etc. My health has been a yo-yo for years, but over the last 6 months I've been taking steps to reduce my exposure to EMF and, more recently, blue light, and I honestly feel...

www.toyotatruckclub.com

 

[toyotafan]

Any updates on this?