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22r power increase
- Thread starter snoopy68
- Start date
I am not sure what the cheapest way is. Maybe some else can help with the money side of it, but obviously putting a turbo on it would increase power.
I am interested in seeing other responses as well too.
I am interested in seeing other responses as well too.
I think one of the easiest routes would be cams, webers and headers. You could also try to find a less restrictive air cleaner on the carbthat doesn't have the huge housing.
The cheapest power enhancing additions that can be done to a 22R engine are:
Headers with freeflow muffler, 1 3/4" pipe to the rear of the truck (pipe length affects performance, short pipes chopped off under the truck will reduce gains).
If it's not fuel injected a Webber carb, or if you can get lucky enough to find an older Webber multi purpose dual carb set-up it'd be even better. Side draft carb's perform slightly better on this engine but the difference between side draft and down draft isnt huge. If it's fuel injected (all 4x4 trucks came from the factory with FI after 87) leave it alone, just clean and tune what you got, as a matter of fact if you could find a truck with the FI system and all its components it would make a great performance swap for yours and give better performance gains than a Webber carb.
Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, a decent tune-up kit with quality parts will enhance performance a lot on this engine.
Open element air filter with a true external source of air supply, the factory air filtration system is restrictive and slightly under sized for the volume of air this engine is capable of using. There are aftermarket kits for sale but I recommend spending time under the hood and at the hardware store looking to see what you can design.
Check the catalytic convertor, dont just chop it off, it's presence is a Federal requirement to be kept and maintained on the truck, performance gains from removing it are almost non-existant, but in bad condition it can hurt performance, replace it with a new one, getting caught without a converter can run as high as $10,000 dollars in fines, far cheaper than the $100-$200 to replace it.
Gears, your truck looks to be running something slightly larger than the factory 29" tire these trucks came with, 2" taller tires, 31" can reduce engine performance by 20%, more on an older tired engine.
And finally take a page from the rock crawlers book of building, lighten the load, if it serves no purpose on the truck take it off, if you can build parts lighter and sturdier then replace them, materials and methods have drastically changed since this truck left the factory about 25 years ago theres lots of room for improvement.
On my 91 crawler I removed the side and rear windows and replaced with Lexan, saved 35lbs.
Removed the window crank mechanisms in favor of sliding window, 25lbs.
Removed the front inner fenders and replaced with pond liner curtains, 50lbs.
Junked the bed in favor of a flat bed, 120lbs.
we removed over 60lbs of unused brackets and other odds and ends from the undercarriage.
Swapped to racing bucket seats and removed 47lbs.
I recommend you start prowling the local auto recyclers and swap meets, with patience I believe you'll be able to find everything you want to turn this little truck into a little mud beast.
Headers with freeflow muffler, 1 3/4" pipe to the rear of the truck (pipe length affects performance, short pipes chopped off under the truck will reduce gains).
If it's not fuel injected a Webber carb, or if you can get lucky enough to find an older Webber multi purpose dual carb set-up it'd be even better. Side draft carb's perform slightly better on this engine but the difference between side draft and down draft isnt huge. If it's fuel injected (all 4x4 trucks came from the factory with FI after 87) leave it alone, just clean and tune what you got, as a matter of fact if you could find a truck with the FI system and all its components it would make a great performance swap for yours and give better performance gains than a Webber carb.
Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, a decent tune-up kit with quality parts will enhance performance a lot on this engine.
Open element air filter with a true external source of air supply, the factory air filtration system is restrictive and slightly under sized for the volume of air this engine is capable of using. There are aftermarket kits for sale but I recommend spending time under the hood and at the hardware store looking to see what you can design.
Check the catalytic convertor, dont just chop it off, it's presence is a Federal requirement to be kept and maintained on the truck, performance gains from removing it are almost non-existant, but in bad condition it can hurt performance, replace it with a new one, getting caught without a converter can run as high as $10,000 dollars in fines, far cheaper than the $100-$200 to replace it.
Gears, your truck looks to be running something slightly larger than the factory 29" tire these trucks came with, 2" taller tires, 31" can reduce engine performance by 20%, more on an older tired engine.
And finally take a page from the rock crawlers book of building, lighten the load, if it serves no purpose on the truck take it off, if you can build parts lighter and sturdier then replace them, materials and methods have drastically changed since this truck left the factory about 25 years ago theres lots of room for improvement.
On my 91 crawler I removed the side and rear windows and replaced with Lexan, saved 35lbs.
Removed the window crank mechanisms in favor of sliding window, 25lbs.
Removed the front inner fenders and replaced with pond liner curtains, 50lbs.
Junked the bed in favor of a flat bed, 120lbs.
we removed over 60lbs of unused brackets and other odds and ends from the undercarriage.
Swapped to racing bucket seats and removed 47lbs.
I recommend you start prowling the local auto recyclers and swap meets, with patience I believe you'll be able to find everything you want to turn this little truck into a little mud beast.
Great advice tbplus10! Did you ever increase the power in your stock motor?
I've built more than one of them.
From 1989 to 1991 while I was stationed in San Diego Ca. I had a 87 2wd Toyota std cab truck that I built into a class 7S Baja runner, which at that time was a stock truck with minimum modifications. With 4 single bbl side draft Webbers, longtube headers, a 6 row radiator, dry sump oil system, Jacobs electronic ign., modified harmonic balancer, and heavier fly wheel I pulled 323hp out of a factory engine.
7S: Vehicles built from a 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive mini or mid-sized pickup having a maximum stock wheelbase of 127''.
Horsepower: 175-265
Wheel Travel: 12 Front, 16-20 Rear
Weight: 3200-4000
Top Speed: 100+
Basic Rules:
Suspensions Components:
- Front and Rear suspension must be of the same manufacturer, shape, size and configuration as the stock vehicle being used.
- All suspension components except shocks and rear leaf springs will reamin in original stock locations and mounting methods.
- A-arms, I-beams, and front axles must remain stock length; material may be added for strength and stock mounting locations retained.
- Rear springs may be lengthened to that of the longest stock production rear leaf spring as delivered by the manufacturer. (57 1/2")
Engine:
- Must be of the same manufacturer basic design and type with a max of 6 cylinders.
- Must use the stock block and cylinder heads as delivered for highway use from the manufacturer.
- Updating and predating is allowed within the vehicle chassis and body series.
- Maximum displacement of 3000cc.
After the truck was destroyed in 1990 during my second Baja 500 I decided I was gonna get serious about running the Baja and compete in the 1000 so we built the truck into a Sportsman class truck running a 22 RTE burning engineered fuel and pushing 527hp on a dyno. Unfortunately the Gulf war intervened before I got to go racing and after returning home from the middle east I received orders to Italy so I sold the truck to a friend of mine. I assume it's still racing as the last I heard it was part of the "Blue Coyote" racing team.
Sportsman Truck: Open trucks that are usually pre-runners. There are rule variations between sanctioning organizations. Specs may vary greatly.
Horsepower: 150-300+
Wheel Travel: 13-20 Front, 14-30 Rear
Weight: 3000-4500 Pounds
Top Speed: 110+
Since then I've built over a dozen different PreRunner and Lowrider Toyota trucks with high performance 22R engines. It's an inexpensive engine to build and run, even when their hotrodded their still capable of returning good fuel mileage and decent performance. No their not a V-12 with 1200hp but they get the job done decently and when you have a good trans and proper rear end gearing they can be impressive.
From 1989 to 1991 while I was stationed in San Diego Ca. I had a 87 2wd Toyota std cab truck that I built into a class 7S Baja runner, which at that time was a stock truck with minimum modifications. With 4 single bbl side draft Webbers, longtube headers, a 6 row radiator, dry sump oil system, Jacobs electronic ign., modified harmonic balancer, and heavier fly wheel I pulled 323hp out of a factory engine.
7S: Vehicles built from a 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive mini or mid-sized pickup having a maximum stock wheelbase of 127''.
Horsepower: 175-265
Wheel Travel: 12 Front, 16-20 Rear
Weight: 3200-4000
Top Speed: 100+
Basic Rules:
Suspensions Components:
- Front and Rear suspension must be of the same manufacturer, shape, size and configuration as the stock vehicle being used.
- All suspension components except shocks and rear leaf springs will reamin in original stock locations and mounting methods.
- A-arms, I-beams, and front axles must remain stock length; material may be added for strength and stock mounting locations retained.
- Rear springs may be lengthened to that of the longest stock production rear leaf spring as delivered by the manufacturer. (57 1/2")
Engine:
- Must be of the same manufacturer basic design and type with a max of 6 cylinders.
- Must use the stock block and cylinder heads as delivered for highway use from the manufacturer.
- Updating and predating is allowed within the vehicle chassis and body series.
- Maximum displacement of 3000cc.
After the truck was destroyed in 1990 during my second Baja 500 I decided I was gonna get serious about running the Baja and compete in the 1000 so we built the truck into a Sportsman class truck running a 22 RTE burning engineered fuel and pushing 527hp on a dyno. Unfortunately the Gulf war intervened before I got to go racing and after returning home from the middle east I received orders to Italy so I sold the truck to a friend of mine. I assume it's still racing as the last I heard it was part of the "Blue Coyote" racing team.
Sportsman Truck: Open trucks that are usually pre-runners. There are rule variations between sanctioning organizations. Specs may vary greatly.
Horsepower: 150-300+
Wheel Travel: 13-20 Front, 14-30 Rear
Weight: 3000-4500 Pounds
Top Speed: 110+
Since then I've built over a dozen different PreRunner and Lowrider Toyota trucks with high performance 22R engines. It's an inexpensive engine to build and run, even when their hotrodded their still capable of returning good fuel mileage and decent performance. No their not a V-12 with 1200hp but they get the job done decently and when you have a good trans and proper rear end gearing they can be impressive.
Did you put that in yourself?
suncomb1
Member
No, My local Toyota dealer installed it but I did all of the tuning. Once the tuning was done I drove it for a while to break the motor in. Once the motor was broke in I then added the Nitrous Oxide system, went to the Pocono Raceway track and dialed in the Nitrous system. I am pretty happy with the results and I get about 19 MPG on the highway driving 70-75 MPH (no Nitrous). I have always had fast cars and my truck is now in that category.
LCE has always had some of the best Toyota performance packages out.
I like Turbos and Superchargers (my 99 Tacoma X-Cab has a 3.4 with a Supercharger and a long list of other mods) if done right they offer a huge potential for performance. But they can be problematic at times and require lots of tweaking to keep them at peak performance, which is one reason my 99 Tacoma has been removed from daily commuting and replaced with a newer stock vehicle.
I like Turbos and Superchargers (my 99 Tacoma X-Cab has a 3.4 with a Supercharger and a long list of other mods) if done right they offer a huge potential for performance. But they can be problematic at times and require lots of tweaking to keep them at peak performance, which is one reason my 99 Tacoma has been removed from daily commuting and replaced with a newer stock vehicle.
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