Have you checked the throttle position sensor to verify it is working correctly? Saw this on the net maybe help you.
IGNITION TIMING
Since you are a responsible 22R/E owner, I know you have this right. But, let’s bring it up just to make sure we are all on the same page.
*ALL OF THESE RECOMMENDED TIMING CHECKS / SETTINGS ARE VALID AS LONG AS YOU KNOW YOUR TPS IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY. YOU DIDN’T SKIP THAT SECTION, DID YOU?*
Setting timing on your engine properly is one of the most critical parts to make it run right and perform to its potential. This is not a 350 engine you worked on as a kid. This is not an air cooled VW bug engine that you can tune “by ear” and set the points with a matchbook cover. Not setting your 22R/22RE timing properly can lead to very poor performance, bad gas mileage and SEVERE engine damage. Don’t mess around.
Once It’s up to normal operating temp, you can now set the timing with a timing light. Grab a paper clip and straighten it out and then bend it to a “U” shape. Inside of the small plastic box that is next to the underhood fuse box, you’ll find a diagram. Insert the paper clip into the terminals marked “E1” and “Te1” as shown below:
1985-1986 (and some 1987‘s) EFI trucks do not have this box, you’ll find the spot to jump it at the DRIVERS side fenderwell. It is the connector that has 2 wires (not 1, not 3 or 4, just 2). It looks like a wiring harness connector and should be “plugged” into a rubber grommet mounted on the inner fenderwell. It's the same connector you've used to count the codes when your "check engine" light is on. Shown below.
Base timing should be at 5 degrees with the ECU “jumped” and 12 degrees without (of course after the engine is at normal operating temp). If you set it at the 5 degree mark and remove the jumper and it doesn’t advance itself to the 12 degree mark, your TPS is out of adjustment or bad. See the TPS section above.
FOR CARBURETED TRUCKS:
Your truck does not have computer controlled timing, so it’s a little different. To set the initial base timing, remove BOTH vacuum lines at the vacuum advance on your distributor and cap both lines (golf tees work perfect). With the timing light (and vacuum lines off and capped) pointed at the lower pulley, turn your distributor until the pointer is at the 0 degree mark. While it’s still running, re-connect the inner vacuum advance line, it should jump to about 5 to 7 degrees at the timing marks. Connect the second vacuum line next. There shouldn’t be any change (you shouldn’t have vacuum at that line at idle). If you don’t have any change in timing when you connect the “inner” vacuum line (and there is vacuum at the hose when running) you may have a bad vacuum advance unit. Get a hand held vacuum pump and test both diaphragms. Both should hold vacuum and not bleed down. If not, replace the vacuum advance unit and perform the steps listed above.
EGR VALVE
