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2017 Tacoma SR 2.7L (2tr-fe) Engine Oil Change 101 - DIY

tibadoe

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Staff member
1000 Posts
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2017 Toyota Tacoma SR 2.7L (2TR-FE) Engine Oil Change 101 - DIY for beginners

Changing your engine oil is one of the most important preventative maintenance (PM) services you can perform on any vehicle. At a minimum, stick with the manufacturers service schedule recommended for your vehicle. I recommend you document each and every service you perform. Make sure you document all services both online at Toyota Owners and print out a hard copy to file away. Keep all receipts. For my hard copy, I print out the page from the maintenance manual pdf and record the date, mileage, and check off each service. I attach any receipts to the hard copy and file away for future reference.

This is a step by step tutorial for someone who has never changed the oil in a 2017 Toyota Tacoma SR with a 2.7L 2TR-FE 4-cylinder engine. These are the steps I take and tools I use when performing a oil change. If you decide to take on this project remember to be SAFE and use COMMON SENSE. It is highly recommended that you read through this entire procedure from start to finish. Get a firm mental picture of the entire process so there will be no skipped steps or unwanted surprises. Keep in mind - this is a beginner level service thread. When completed you will have the satisfaction of completing you own oil change and knowing it was done correctly.

If you have everything ready, it only takes about 60 minutes (maybe a little longer the first time) from start to finish. I had plenty of work room with the vehicle up on ramps. Ramps are not necessary but for me they make the job easier by giving you that extra bit of "working" room. You don't have to crawl or slide too far under the engine to access the oil pan drain plug. For this engine model, Toyota designers located the oil filter on the underside of the engine. While under there, change out the filter. NOTE: The oil filter is very important and should be changed at every oil change - don't skimp here. This is a typical spin-on disposable metal housing oil filter - not the replaceable cartridge type oil filter.

Plan ahead to make sure you have all the tools and supplies needed for a upcoming oil change:
0W-20 motor oil - 6.2 quarts
Oil Filter - OEM #90915-YZZD1
Drain Plug Gasket - OEM #90430-12031
Fumoto F-103N Engine Oil Drain Valve (optional - but I really like it)
Drain Pan
Funnel
Shop rags
Torque Wrench (optional - but recommended)
Small Oil Filter Wrench/Strap (optional - but recommended)
3/8" ratchet
3/8" extension
14mm socket
Rubber Gloves
Wheel Chocks (optional - but recommended)
Car ramps (optional)
Cardboard to lay on (optional)


Torque Specs I use for my Tacoma - NOTE: Check service manual to confirm correct torque specs for your vehicle:
Oil Filter: 7/8 turn after gasket contact / ??-?? in lb / ??-?? ft lb / ??-?? N*m
Drain Plug: 22 - 24 ft lbs
Fumoto Valve: 15 ft lbs



Warm up the engine by driving a few miles. Once up to normal operating temperature park making sure vehicle is level. If you are like me I use ramps in my driveway. In my instance, after pulling up on ramps vehicle is level.
NOTE: For automatic transmissions: Make sure selector is in park & emergency brake is applied. Manual transmissions: Make sure gear shifter is in gear & emergency brake is applied. Use wheel chocks for extra safety.
Open hood:


Slide under the front end and look up. The oil drain bolt is located directly behind the front differential. The oil pan drain bolt will be positioned straight down and aluminum in color:


Using a 3/8" ratchet and 14mm socket, remove engine oil drain bolt by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: OIL WILL BE HOT!!!! Make sure your oil drain pan is in position to catch the draining oil. Let the oil drain completely.


I like to let the oil drain for at least 30 minutes plus. The longer the better in my book:


While the oil is draining out of the oil pan, start working on removing the oil filter. Locate the oil filter on the passenger side of engine. Caution: Engine & components may be hot!


Using a ratchet, extension, and filter wrench of your choice, remove filter by turning counter clockwise. CAUTION: MAY BE HOT!!!! NOTE: My OEM filter from the factory was gorilla tight. Had to use a pair of channel lock pliers to loosen it up. Once the oil filter is removed, use a shop rag to wipe down any spilled oil. Make sure oil filter base on engine is clean and free of any debris or old oil. Dispose of used oil & filter properly.


On most vehicles I use my finger and put a light coat of fresh oil on the entire O-ring. That was not needed: Notice how the Toyota OEM oil filters come with a coating of light grease on the O-ring:


Install oil filter by turning clockwise. Hand Tighten 7/8 to one full turn, after contact gasket or torque down to: ????? ft lbs New filter is now installed:


If you have decided to install the Fumoto Drain Valve skip down a few steps.

Oil Drain Bolt Install:
Clean the Oil Drain Bolt completely. If you do not see the gasket on the oil drain bolt, it's most likely stuck on the oil pan. Remove the old washer and discard. If the gasket is stuck to the pan, use a straight blade screwdriver & palm of my hand to gently knock gasket off the pan. Do not mess up the threads when trying to break gasket free. After removing old crush washer -- replace old gasket with a new one.

Oil drain bolt cleaned and without a new crush washer:


Install oil pan drain plug with a new drain plug gasket into oil pan by turning clockwise. Torque down the oil pan drain plug (clockwise) with torque wrench to 22 -24 ft. lbs. If you do not have a torque wrench use your best judgment. *** DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ***


Fumoto valve #F-103N Install:
I am replacing my oil drain bolt on my first oil change with a Fumoto valve #F-103N. Note: If you plan on some off road 4 wheeling do not get the valve with long nipple. You will be increasing the chances of it hanging on something since the valve points straight down to the ground:


To install the Fumoto Valve, wipe of bottom of drain pan and install according to Fumoto instructions by clicking here. CONFIRM THE CORRECT TORQUE by checking out Fumoto website by clicking here. Correct torque for F-103N is 177 in lbs / 15 ft lbs
Fumoto valve #F103N installed:


To make a no mess drain on your next oil change, slide a 12" clear hose onto valve nipple to simplify draining. Lift up on lever and rotate to begin draining. This makes it Simple - Clean - and Easy. Let the oil drain completely while you work on the other steps:
[big]*** Picture coming at next oil change ***[/big]

Now we are working on the top side of the engine. CAUTION: Engine & components may be hot!
With hood open - remove the black oil filler cap which is located on the top front side of the engine. It will be stamped with "Engine Oil" and the recommended oil weight "SAE 0W-20". Clean off the filler cap O-ring gasket. Set cap aside for now being careful not to drop it down in the engine compartment:


Remove yellow handled oil dipstick which is located on front driver side of engine. Set aside for now being careful not to let it fall down in the engine compartment. DANGER: Do not lay metal dipstick anywhere near the battery terminals!


Place funnel securely in oil filler hole and carefully pour 5 quarts of SAE 0W-20 into engine. I like to play it safe and start by pouring about 5 quarts of oil in first, check it a few times, adding a little at a time until full:


Replace engine oil fill cap and reinsert oil dipstick. Check engine compartment and remove any tools, shop rags, oil bottles, etc. Start engine to circulate oil through engine and oil filter. NOTE: Oil light may be illuminated for a few seconds until oil is circulated. (If oil light stays on for longer than 10-15 seconds - shut engine off and check oil level.) While engine is running, look under vehicle and check drain plug for any oil leaks. Pay close attention to oil filter and oil drain plug. There should be NO leaks of any kind. After inspecting for oil leaks - shut engine off.
WARNING: keep hands, fingers, body parts, etc. away from any moving parts, fans, and drive belts. Electric fans can cut on & off at anytime without notice.

Let vehicle sit for about 15 minutes and then check oil. This gives the oil time to flow back down into the oil pan for a correct oil level reading. Pull dipstick out of tube and wipe off with a clean shop rag. Reinsert dipstick back into tube, after a second or two pull back out and read level. Oil level should be up to top dot on dipstick. For more detailed information on checking oil level: Refer to your Owners Manual.
WARNING: Do not operate engine with oil below the lower dot on dipstick.


That's it!!! You just completed a oil & filter change service on your Toyota Tacoma 2.7L engine. Congratulations!

Don't forget to reset you maintenance notification screen. Even if it's out of sync and not illuminated now you want to reset it.

Note: Get in the habit of checking your vehicles engine oil on a regular basis. It is a good habit to develop and can prevent unwanted engine problems down the road. Always be proactive and keep an eye out for any signs of leaks. Hint: When walking up to your vehicle, pay attention and be aware of any signs of leakage: puddles under engine. After pulling away from a parking spot are there any signs of oil leaks?
 
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kennythewelder

Super Moderator
Staff member
100 Posts
Very nice write up. I had no idea there was a place to log you maintenance with Toyota. I could not agree more about regular oil and filter changes, and all regular PMs.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
Great write-up, probably took you 2x longer to change your oil because you stopped to take the pics, but just fantastic step-by-step guide.
 

elites

New Member
Hi,
New to this club. Thanks so much for such a great informative write-up. Could you please recommend what brand and where to buy the tools (which you mentioned above)? Thanks in advance.
 

tibadoe

Moderator
Staff member
1000 Posts
Community Leader
Hi,
New to this club. Thanks so much for such a great informative write-up. Could you please recommend what brand and where to buy the tools (which you mentioned above)? Thanks in advance.
First off - welcome to the TTC forum. Lots of good info and people to help out.
These tools I have been collecting over the years.
1: The basic tools like 3/8" ratchet, 3/8" extension, and 14mm socket are my old Sears Craftsman tools. Had these for close to 40 years now. Any quality socket set should be fine. If you are going to purchase a 14mm socket get a six sided one.
2: The oil filter wrench is a cheap-O from Walmart. Amazon has a bunch of different ones. Or you can size one up locally at Walmart on one of their oil filters that fit the Tacoma or just use a pair of channel locks. The OEM filter and drain plug from the factory may be tight so be prepared.
3: Shop rags, gloves,drain pan & funnel came from Walmart.
4: Torque wrench came from Harbor Freight - use common sense when using a cheaper brand like this. They can be off by by quite a few ft-lbs. The one I have is pretty close to being spot on.

Any other questions let me know.
 

elites

New Member
First off - welcome to the TTC forum. Lots of good info and people to help out.
These tools I have been collecting over the years.
1: The basic tools like 3/8" ratchet, 3/8" extension, and 14mm socket are my old Sears Craftsman tools. Had these for close to 40 years now. Any quality socket set should be fine. If you are going to purchase a 14mm socket get a six sided one.
2: The oil filter wrench is a cheap-O from Walmart. Amazon has a bunch of different ones. Or you can size one up locally at Walmart on one of their oil filters that fit the Tacoma or just use a pair of channel locks. The OEM filter and drain plug from the factory may be tight so be prepared.
3: Shop rags, gloves,drain pan & funnel came from Walmart.
4: Torque wrench came from Harbor Freight - use common sense when using a cheaper brand like this. They can be off by by quite a few ft-lbs. The one I have is pretty close to being spot on.

Any other questions let me know.
Thanks so much for the response. I am planning to drain all the old oil and then replace the OEM valve with ValvoMax valve (that will make life much easier and less messy :) ). After fully drain the old oil, I will put 2 quarts oil then start the engine for 5-10 seconds, then turn off and drain the oil. Will do this for 3 times (I'm hoping after that old oil will flush out with the new one). After that will fill the new oil as per OEM specs. If I want to flush my old dirty oil completely is this right way or what do you recommend? I am asking a lot of questions but again thanks so much for your advice.
 

tibadoe

Moderator
Staff member
1000 Posts
Community Leader
.........I am planning to drain all the old oil and then replace the OEM valve with ValvoMax valve..........
I also changed the drain plug over to a drain valve. Nothing like a fast easy oil change.

..........After fully drain the old oil, I will put 2 quarts oil then start the engine for 5-10 seconds, then turn off and drain the oil. Will do this for 3 times (I'm hoping after that old oil will flush out with the new one). After that will fill the new oil as per OEM specs. If I want to flush my old dirty oil completely is this right way or what do you recommend? I am asking a lot of questions but again thanks so much for your advice.
How long has it been since the oil has been changed? What year model truck do you have? As long as you change oil/filter within the time frame Toyota recommends (10K), I wouldn't bother with adding the 2 qts - starting - draining. That's a lot of effort with very little gains.

If you want to keep your oil in good condition and not gunk up the insides of the motor change the oil/filter at a minimum every 5k instead of 10k. That's what I do and you know your engine is protected and internal parts will stay clean.

I actually do my first change @ about 1k and then cut in half whatever the manual states as a minimum.
 

elites

New Member
I also changed the drain plug over to a drain valve. Nothing like a fast easy oil change.



How long has it been since the oil has been changed? What year model truck do you have? As long as you change oil/filter within the time frame Toyota recommends (10K), I wouldn't bother with adding the 2 qts - starting - draining. That's a lot of effort with very little gains.

If you want to keep your oil in good condition and not gunk up the insides of the motor change the oil/filter at a minimum every 5k instead of 10k. That's what I do and you know your engine is protected and internal parts will stay clean.

I actually do my first change @ about 1k and then cut in half whatever the manual states as a minimum.
Roger that :). I have 2 vehicles (1 Friend's Tacoma 2016 and 1 RAV4 2015). Our mileages are 5-6K / year so you recommend I should change after year or 6 months? Thanks Joe.
 

tibadoe

Moderator
Staff member
1000 Posts
Community Leader
Roger that :). I have 2 vehicles (1 Friend's Tacoma 2016 and 1 RAV4 2015). Our mileages are 5-6K / year so you recommend I should change after year or 6 months? Thanks Joe.
If still under warranty, definitely go by the manual as a minimum. Toyota recommends changing oil for my 14 RAV4 and 17 Tacaoma every 10k or 12 months - whichever comes first. You two vehicles will fall under the same requirements. I have no problem changing oil every year, as long as I'm 5k or under in mileage. When the wife was driving 5k every 6 months, I changed at the 6 month mark.

I know some say it is a waste of money, but I enjoy servicing my own vehicles and knowing the job was done correctly. Make sure you keep all receipts, dates, and mileage of each service you do. Also log them on the Toyota Owners site.

As a side note, if you fall under the severe operation conditions, you should follow the requirements listed in the Warranty & Maintenance manual.

Any other questions or concerns let me know.
 
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toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
If still under warranty, definitely go by the manual as a minimum. Toyota recommends changing oil for my 14 RAV4 and 17 Tacaoma every 10k or 12 months - whichever comes first. You will fall under the same requirements. I have no problem changing oil every year, as long as I'm 5k or under. When the wife was driving 5k every 6 months, I changed as the 6 month mark.

I know some say it is a waste of money, but I enjoy servicing my own vehicles and knowing the job was done correctly. Make sure you keep all receipts, dates, and mileage of each service you do. Also log them on the Toyota Owners site.

As a side note, if you fall under the severe operation conditions, you should follow the requirements listed in the Warranty & Maintenance manual.

Any other questions or concerns let me know.
It doesn't hurt anything on the vehicle to change it more frequently.
 

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