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Am I Getting Over-charged To Swap In A Rebuilt Engine?

Dave 1986

New Member
It's a long-bed/extended cab '86 pickup with 290K miles and 22R (carb) engine and no AC. Symptoms of a blown head gasket (fluid in oil, overheating) caused me to take the truck to a well-respected non-dealer shop in my area. They took off the head and found a bit of a mess and (long story short) determined that the best fix was to swap in a rebuilt engine. They are talking $4K-ish with a 3-yr warranty. I have looked on-line for rebuilt 22R engines and they seem to be about $1700-2100 with 1-3 yr warranties. I am only an amateur mechanic with no experience getting major work done on this truck (no need to until now!), but it seems to me that ~$2K to swap engines is high.

So I am asking those of you who know much more about these matters than I do: does this sound like a reasonable price?

Thanks.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
It's all labor costs but that's in line with what you might see for a newer vehicle. Might look for a smaller shop to give you a lower rate.
 

kennythewelder

Super Moderator
Staff member
100 Posts
The price may be a little high, but it is a lot of work to do an engine swap. The shop has to do a good reliable job with a warranty. The engine has to be run to brake in the cam, and there is a lot of little things that need to be done like get the clutch rite, radiator rite, belts rite just to name a few. also it will be easier most likely to pull the trans with the engine, and put it on the new engine out of the truck, then put them in the truck together.
 
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kennythewelder

Super Moderator
Staff member
100 Posts
Your welcome, I also did not mention anything about all the electrical and vacuum connections, but all that needs to be done as well.You may also need new vacuum hoses. I would not do the swap also with out rebuilding the carb. There are also new gaskets that will be needed, depending on how complete the new engine is. As a basic rule of thumb, what ever the parts are, the labor will be as much if not a little more, depending on the job, and most shops have a few added charges today. (EG shop supplies)
 

kennythewelder

Super Moderator
Staff member
100 Posts
I hope it all turn out well for you. Keep us posted. My Toyota is a grocery getter, a 2004 ---4 runner. It is grate. I never have to do anything to it, except PM. The VVT 4.0L V-6 has a lot of power. This is what my wife drives. My other truck is my daily driver. It is a 1997 Chevy 3 door ext. cab with a 350. When they get old like that, the question is, is it worth sinking money into. If you are going to keep it and drive regular, or just does it have value to you. When you look at what it cost to replace a truck, then it is well worth sinking money into an older truck.
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87Pickup

Member
Just had a new rebuilt engine placed in my 1987 truck. It was unfortunate but well worth $5000 parts and labour. The head and valve job that was necessary would have come in at $2000 and no one would know if the truck would drive after that - I had no compression on two cylinders after I purchased this truck online from Arizona. 3 year warranty and now 250000 miles or 400000 km to go with this new engine - I will be dead before this engine dies.
 

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Dave 1986

New Member
Kenny, I agree about sinking money into an older truck....the only issue being minimal insurance coverage if it gets totaled (knock wood). Nice vehicles there. Mine's an antique by comparison. ;-)

87, you had some bad luck, and I hope the rebuilt engine works out.
 

87Pickup

Member
Thanks Dave. Yes, now the truck is a bit expensive. So far so good. Planning on bringing this truck back to museum quality. Only thing I might not switch back to factory are the rims. I do have a weakness for clean pure rims. .... good thing the insurance is cheap - but still need to wait 2 years to qualify for Haggerty classic insurance - that's where I have my 1979 for $190 a year.
 

kennythewelder

Super Moderator
Staff member
100 Posts
Kenny, I agree about sinking money into an older truck....the only issue being minimal insurance coverage if it gets totaled (knock wood). Nice vehicles there. Mine's an antique by comparison. ;-)

87, you had some bad luck, and I hope the rebuilt engine works out.
I agree, if you wreck them. they aren't worth much.
 

Dave 1986

New Member
The truck is back home with a new (remanufactured) engine, new radiator and hoses and belts and water pump. $4400 all told. I think these guys only use Toyota parts. I haven't driven it much yet, but so far it seems OK. Nice to be mobile again.

87, that cheap insurance--how can it be that cheap? Is it bare-bones--just liability? Do you get to actually drive the truck? ;-)
 

87Pickup

Member
You need another vehicle as your daily driver and your truck needs to be min 25 - 30 years old to qualify low mile pleasure use only - of course it is a pleasure to drive a truck full of 2x6 and LVLs. = pleasure use only. small problem if you crash with a load of 2x4's you may have to pay for the damage yourself if they find out. But my 1979 2 door Mercedes is with Haggerty Insurance at $ 190 a year (Canadian on top of that - that's $150 US). (Maybe it also helps to have grey hair and my last accident was in 1987)
 

jazz

Mechanic
100 Posts
Longblocks on ebay have a large price range. I went with a $1100 long block from Almeida Motors in California 3 years ago. Another vendor still selling a "high performance" 22RE which might be of interest to some. Labour rates vary on area and "who ya know" $50 to $100 a hour,,,quality of workmanship is paramount. I know a few guys that are very meticulous and well worth the $60 per hour they charge as shade tree mechanics. I paid a guy to do my engine swap a few years ago and he drove truck around for a few days before returning it to me. He wanted any gremlins to show up on his watch. I had no problems.
 
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toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
Finding a good mechanic with skills and the ability to work on your vehicle to actually solve problems and give you safe motoring is really getting to be rare these days.

When I was a kid, we had a local guy, who was pretty rough but he was a nice guy and had a full machine shop in the back of his property and I took the head off my i-6 out of my late 70s AMC Jeep CJ5 and he machined it down and resurfaced the head and only charged like $50 for the whole project. Granted, he did it in his spare time and it took about 2 weeks, but that was a very good value and he did really good work!
 

CaptJohn

New Member
Hi new on site, I have an 87 mini-winni Toyota with 22re eng and 76000 miles. Found it in Oregon barn, drove it to Florida and made another trip to Tennessee and back. It. Seems to run fine but some time upon startup it will run really rough almost stall at idle, it may run this way for hours or days but then on startup it will be fine again and not have an issue for days or even months. Can't find a vacuum leak but compression is between 135-125. Thinking of eng swap but can't find much in Florida. Any other ideas? Thanks
 

Super Stock

New Member
Hi new on site, I have an 87 mini-winni Toyota with 22re eng and 76000 miles. Found it in Oregon barn, drove it to Florida and made another trip to Tennessee and back. It. Seems to run fine but some time upon startup it will run really rough almost stall at idle, it may run this way for hours or days but then on startup it will be fine again and not have an issue for days or even months. Can't find a vacuum leak but compression is between 135-125. Thinking of eng swap but can't find much in Florida. Any other ideas? Thanks
This is an old thread, so I don't know if you've solved your issue yet, but you ought to start with your intake. An engine swap should go to the bottom of your list, after you've checked for leaks and other common issues for idle problems. Look up how to do a smoke test to find vacuum leaks. I'm gonna guess you have a small crack in your intake hose or a loose connection.
 

jazz

Mechanic
100 Posts
As far as removing engine i can do it in a couple hours. I'm no pro by any stretch. If you see the manual there are about 42 steps to removal. The engine and transmission come out together. 8 hours is plenty for any pro to charge to do engine swap as frequently other issues can be involved. Rusty exhaust etc all take time.
Local fellow removed engine on its own. He did not read the manual he told me as well getting at the bolts at rear of engine took quite some time which is why you swing engine and transmission together.
When I had my engine changed it was due to bearing failure, the engine had to come out. I have a spare smooth running engine in the garage for the next time:)
 

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