Lost in the Sauce...22R

[coffee_brake]

I don't even know what to ask, I'm at the very bottom of this learning curve.

I've only had the '85 2WD extended cab for a little while. There are big problems and there are many small problems. I don't even know what the search terms are to find more info.
I'd really appreciate any advice. I've been working on motorcycles a long time but hardly any experience with autos.

Hard Start: I'm trying way to hard to get this thing started. I have to pump the gas and turn the starter motor way too long before it will fire up, and then I have to keep my foot on the gas pedal to keep it from shutting off for a few minutes. It must have some kind of choke or enrichener, like a motorcycle, but darned if I know what it looks like to check it out. I finally got my Haynes but the terminology is over my head and the photos are lacking. The weather is cooling off and I know for sure that this truck isn't going to start on a cold morning the way it is now. What can I do?

Brakes: The brakes are pitiful even by 1985 standards. The pedal plunges almost to the floor before I get any braking, and it pulls hard to the right if I really need to get on the brakes hard. It seems I nearly rear-end someone every time I drive (I live in the city, you can't maintain a safe following distance, somebody just jumps in there in their Odyssey and slams on brakes in front of Starbucks).

Front stuff connected to the wheels: I don't even know what these parts are called, or how to tell if they're bad. I just know the right side of the truck sits lower than the left side and when I hit even a small bump it's hard to keep the truck from moving out of the lane. Some kid in a Civic already hit me (his fault) and I had him help me straighten the front bumper to keep insurance from ruining him. It was a light hit but during the repair, I could see where the front right suspension stuff and tie rods and ends and whatever all that is, had once upon a time hit against each other or the frame. Heck I guess I need to go get photos.

I don't even care about the little stuff compared to these issues, like the tailgate that falls open every bump, the shot rear suspension, the inoperable high beams and other little electrical stuff, the compressor that's there but has no belt, missing window trim, and the most pitiful attempt to wire speakers that I've ever seen.
I'd just really appreciate help with the carburetion/choke issues and taking care of the front end before something fails completely.

I have had experience putting shocks and ball joints on my husband's Tacoma, but that's about it.

Help please?

 

[toyotafan]

Wow, how about some new pics added to this thread. At least you have a list to work against.

 

[coffee_brake]

Well, it brought home this motorcycle today...

 

[coffee_brake]

I did some googling and as I understand it, the choke is operated electronically, with a switch. Would that switch have a vacuum line attached to it? I have a switch under the hood with a broken vacuum line near it, the place where the vacuum line attaches to this green cylinder-ish thing broke off inside the line.

 

[jazz]

Since you are capable of doing the repairs how about having a shop do a safety inspection as these only take about 30 minutes and they would supply you with a list of everything the truck needs to make it road worthy. Up here in the great white north you cant get plates or registration on a vehicle that is not road worthy ie everything including high beams must operate. The front brakes could have worn pads but I am thinking more likely a sticking caliper. The belt on compressor was likely removed due to worn bearing on compressor(it makes a hell of a racket) Try youtube for a visual how to check your front suspension components. I have no idea about your carb but a DOT bungy cord is required on that tailgate

 

[coffee_brake]

I hear you, GA has pretty lax laws regarding vehicle safety. No inspections, etc. It's terrifying how many cars slam on brakes in front of you with no running or brake lights at all.
Finding a shop around here that can be trusted is even worse. I think the Googling the processes is the best bet.

 

[coffee_brake]

I've got upper and lower ball joints and shocks all around to pick up locally tomorrow.

Once I'm in there maybe I can see why the brakes are so weird.

 

[coffee_brake]

While I was looking at rims, it occurred to me that these might be trailer rims with Pacer hub covers....

 

[tbplus10]

Those look exactly like Pacer "Wagon" wheels.
I'm just guessing someone attempted to dress the truck up at one time and thought those wheels would look good.
Their big mistake was not checking for correct backspace.
This truck has a vacume/electric choke system, it should also have a heat riser coming from the exhaust manifold heat shield and attaching to the intake air system. The flexible hoses (looks somewhat like a dryer vent hose) get trashed and end up being thrown away most times. The heat riser system help heat intake air and causes the choke to open a little faster.
Your carb could probably use a cleaning with a soft nylon toothbrush and carb cleaner, down the throat and on the butterfly. While you have the air cleaner apart clean it also and check the PCV for oil/gunk build-up and to ensure it still works, it should rattle if you shake it, it could also probably benefit from a shot of carb cleaner and a clean out.
Lets assume most of the brake components are original, disc fronts, drums rear.
Some items I recommend checking are:
All flexible lines, their old and will bulge out under pressure when they get old.
Rear Brake Bypass, if its not adjusted correctly it could be allowing the front brakes to do all the stopping. I havent heard of a complaint about the rear tires locking yet, this was a common issue on these trucks when new if you were driving without a load in back, that tells me the rear BVP is either out of adjustment, low braking pressure in the system from the brake booster/manifold, or the rear shoes are worn out.
Brake booster/manifold, supplys the pressure so if its bad you wont have stopping power.
Id check the system in the following manner:
Lift the truck up and have someone start the engine, hit the brakes hard like a panic stop and observe the flexible hoses for bulges, shape distortion, and to ensure their properly secured and not leaking.
Check pads, rotors, drums, for proper thicknesses.
Then check adjustment of bvp/rear brake actuation.

 

[coffee_brake]

This is good info. I have no idea what the PCV valve looks like (or stands for), nor the bypass system. There's a place where something on the manifold should go into the intake, and that's missing, but I still think whatever choke mechanism this carb has is not working correctly.

One thing at a time, I guess. I tried to find rims at two junk yards today but it was pointless. All the vehicles were picked over and I couldn't even find two matching rims of any kind. Nor can I access the spare tire on this truck, the tool to lower it is missing and it's so frozen up that no "make shift" screwdriver I had could get it loose.

I wish I could find the resource to get rims that fit under the wheel wells. I've spent a lot of time researching but can't find the right matches.

 

[jazz]

I have always switched to a manual choke on carbed engines(it's just a $5.00 cable at any auto parts shop) because auto chokes have a tendency to malfunction at the most inopportune times,,such as middle of the night and -40 ...... I have freed up a few of those spare tire carrier hoists, patience and plenty of weasel piss however the last one had to be cut down. They are easy enough to find on ebay,, I paid $25. for one last year. Once you get it replaced lower the spare once a year and oil the hoist and chain/cable to maintain function. I think I accessed the bolts on hoist with a die grinder to cut it down(three bolts to cut)...not a lot of room there. Call a tire shop for used rims..less aggravation and they frequently have quite a supply of used rims...

 

[coffee_brake]

A cable operated choke would be great; this is a concept I'm used to with my motorcycles.

 

[tbplus10]

PCV= Positive Crank case Ventilation, and yes it would probably be the piece missing on top of the engine. It normally has a rubber gromet that fits in the valve cover, the other end has a rubber hose that goes to the aircleaners assy. Its purpose is to recirculate oil and fuel fumes from the crank case into the air intake.
The Brake Bypass Valve is located under the back of the truck, it'll have the main brake line going into it and a line coming out of it that will lead to a manifold that splits the brake line for either side. The bypass valve will have a thin rod attached to the axle somewhere, on the valve end will be a theaded fitting attached to a lever arm that operates the valve. As the load in the truck increases and the rear drops down the arm and lever move and open the bypass valve to allow more fluid/pressure to the rear brakes. Take the load out and the back end comes up closing the valve some and allowing less pressure/fluid which lessens the rear wheel braking action.
If your already missing pieces to the choke system a manual cable might be the best fix, Id still give the carb a good cleaning though.
The tire tools go missing all the time, very hard to find in yards.
I made my own with 1/2" square steel length, flattened one end then cleaned the other end to fit in a socket, I either use a ratchet to lower/raise or put my electric impact wrench on it.
Once the tire hoists freeze up its almost impossible to get working again.
I normally cut the cable or the wheel center holding bracket, dont worry about damage to the hoist because odds are itll never work again anyways.
Yea a tire shop might have some decent steel rims close to your specs.

 

[coffee_brake]

OK great, I have no problem with operating the choke manually. Soon as I figure out how...

In the meantime, I got a front wheel off. I don't see ANY slop at the upper or lower ball joints. Does this mean they're OK? Instead, I see slop at...uh..the thing on the right side of the first photo. It's got at least a quarter inch of movement when I move the hub back and forth. And look at the second photo, the wear suggests the turning stop is rubbing? Is that what it is?
The third photo confirms that new brake lines are not an option, they have to happen right away.

 

[coffee_brake]

TB do I remove the carb to clean it?

 

[tbplus10]

You can remove the carb to clean it, but Id do it in place, after cleaning the truck may be a little hard to start but after the carb cleaner gets through the system and fuel gets into the cylinders it should fire but run rough for a minute or so.
You might try cleaning the carb with seafoam then run some through the vacume lines and dump the remander in the fuel tank.
Top pic is the idler arm. If it has slop or movement I recommend replacing it.
Next pic looks to be the turn stop, some rubbing is to be expected, check the stop on the steering gear and make sure it isnt to mashed or worn. Some of them have an adjustable tab, if not and its really worn you might want to weld more steel on it. Its purpose is to keep the front tires out of the frame or anything else while turning. Tires tagging frame could possibly equal locked wheel while turning, not good.
Third pic looks like a nice new bottle jack, and a factory original flexible brake line thats beyond its reasonable life expectancy.
Ball joints dont always show movement, I think you said you had a Haynes maint manual, check their procedure for ball joint check procedures. I want to say there was something about lifting the a arm or ball joint with a pry bar and measuring the distance it can lift.
Its been close to 20 years since I did ball joints on these trucks.

 

[rickoshay45]

I have that adding Seafoam to the gas is beneficial to just about any motor, 2 or 4 wheeled. It won't hurt and may help clean gunk out of the carb.

 

[coffee_brake]

Seafoam really is good stuff. It tends to swell the rubber bits in old motorcycle carbs when used excessively, but I've gotten lots of bikes to smooth out with it.
I use Heet a lot, the stuff that keeps water out of the fuel. Here in the humid Southeast, water in the ethanol fuel is a real big problem year-round. Heet helps prevent the rust the water causes in both the fuel tanks and the carb components. I've already put some in this truck, because I don't know if anybody has ever taken measures to protect the fuel tank.

I really do know my way around a motorcycle carb, even a rack of four of them. But I know very little about what I'm looking at on this truck.
MANY THANKS for all the help, I appreciate it.

 

[coffee_brake]

There's no information in the Haynes about how to check the ball joints. I'm drawing conclusions based on the condition of the rubber parts, they look really good compared to all the other rubber stuff under there. I think they may have been replaced already.

The shock I removed was aftermarket and its rubber bits were falling apart. There's no movement at the ball joints but I can't lift the hub on its arms without using a jack.

Just trying to minimize spending money on parts I don't need.

 

[coffee_brake]

I returned the ball joints and ordered the idler arm instead. Luckily its joint won't have to be broken, the whole unit is available.
Also got new brake lines, but I have no idea how they go onto the hard lines.

How can you tell if a rotor needs to be turned?