While I'm waiting on a manual...

[coffee_brake]

I just picked up a 1985 pickup. It's a 2WD and it's a four-speed manual and it's carburated. I'm having trouble figuring out exactly what it's supposed to be called, because there are so many words for the Toyota trucks of this time period.

The last time I had a truck, it was a 1978 Hilux (or whatever it was called in the States), it was referred to as "The Ugly Truckling," and I loved it like a child. But I was ignorant about how to do anything more than change the oil, and its age-related issues overwhelmed me. There were no forums like these, or even Amazon used books to help me learn. I miss that truck to this day.

I've got a manual on the way to help me with the basics. In the meantime....

Is this seriously supposed to be a 4-speed? In 1985? I mean, I was writing in cursive by then....

The seller didn't speak English and his kid could *barely* speak English. So I couldn't find out if the timing chain had been done. Should I hear it at 190k miles? I hear a tap but it's not making me cringe yet.

Brake pedal plunges almost to the floor before I can feel anything bite. It seems to stop the truck OK but maybe I'm under-estimating what I should feel. Am I stopping on drums? Front rotors are bright and shiny.

I think maybe the wheels aren't stock? I rode a 500-lb motorcycle to buy the truck and loaded it to bring it home. Fender wells were rubbing the tires. These rims/shocks can't be stock, can they? Truck didn't LOOK lowered but rubbing sidewalls ain't no fun.

AC compressor is belt-less. Can I just plug-and-play another compressor and belt? (seller was able to communicate that the compressor was bad.)

Sorry for such odd questions. I still don't know a lot about automobiles, I just needed a good little truck and went straight to the Toyotas, especially a carbureted one. All it has to do is tote me and my dog around and move the occasional firewood or furniture or motorcycle. My husband may be allowed a ride now and then, but he's got his own Tacoma that has no issues whatsoever, and it has AC. I maintain and repair all the bikes and automobiles, learning as I go as things need work.

Thanks for any info you can provide, it's much appreciated.

 

[tbplus10]

You are the proud owner of a base model 1985 Toyota pickup.
The truck was mfg in Japan at 1 of 2 plants located near Yokohama, and shipped in primer without the bed, bumpers, spare tire, and a few other items.
Those parts not on the truck were transported on the same ship and all item were painted and final assembly was completed in Fremont Ca. The reason for this was to avoid certain import tax as a complete vehicle.
Yes 4cyl 4spd.
5 speed transmissions were only available on SR5 trucks which were mfgrd from the ground up in Fremont.
The 4spd was considered the base trans untill the 1988 model yr when toyota changed the body and made many upgrades.
Your bed is refered to as an "import" bed, it has extruded side rails instead of the smooth side found on SR5 trucks. Watch for corrosion on the bed, theres a few theories why they corrode so bad but suffice it to say they do.
This was considered a 1/2 ton truck, dont expect it to carry the same load as a full size 1/2 ton, it isnt equal.
Stock wheels would be stamped steel in a gray/silver color, that was the only color offered. 15x6 on 5.5 with 3.5 backspace.
Check that brake system, many of the base model trucks had manual steering (yes no power) and manual brakes without vacume assist.
A/C was a dealer add on and fitting the whole system in was considered plug and play. The green a/c button was normally refered to as the $500 button.
Remember new this truck only retaied for $6200 off the lot in base trim, which meant 4cyl 4spd, man windows & door locks, no radio, vynal seats and floor covering, no rear bumper or spare tire, those were options until 1987.

 

[coffee_brake]

great, thanks for the reply. I was wondering if I'd said something wrong...

Today I changed the oil and air filter, both filthy. I'm watching the bed (the '78 was more rust than paint, all the more reason I loved it) but I'm more concerned with some few but deep rust on the sides, not the bottom, of the bed. There's a spare under there, and that bad compressor, but no bumper. Seats are cloth and there's carpeting that looks pretty darned vintage to me.

Would a vacuum brake assist look like a round steel heavy thing near the brake fluid reservoir? (Remember I know a lot more about motorcycles than I do trucks.)
And, I don't know what a power steering unit would look like. It does feel kind of different: not exactly hard to turn but requires some input to make turns, and a little bit of slop in the wheel.

Please answer me this: I read about the 22R motor in Wikipedia, and it says this motor doesn't like to rev. Well the truck has no tach, so I don't even know what I'm running, but it sounded pretty...active...at 60 mph so I didn't drive it any faster than that. Is this ridiculous, should I be able to go faster? Or was it the load in the back? I'm not really clear on what this 1/2 ton truck should be able to carry, but I'm really glad I didn't ride my BIG bike to go get it (a 700 lb touring rig).

Ooh, one more: this is GA and it's HOT, even now, and brutally so all summer. Do compressors come in generic form, and could I get one that uses the new kinds of coolant? Changing out the lines as I go, of course.

Sorry about all the questions. I haven't even gotten to the more specific stuff like ethanol fuel in the carb, etc. THANKS again!

 

[tbplus10]

Sorry for the late response, Im in DFW and thursdays storms knocked out our power for 12 hours.
The interrior sounds like the original owner splurged on a few options, the comfort package had cloth seats, carpet, a trim ring around the shifter boot, am/fm radio, and sometimes the vented windows vice 1 piece.
Brake booster would be the round piece the master cylinder sticks out of, does it have any vacuum lines attached to it? Power models have vacuum boost.
Powersteering would be a resevoir and pump attached to the front of the engine with a pulley and belt running to the fan pulley.
Slop in the steering could be a bad worm gear in the steering box, bad tie rod ends or arms, dad rag joint on the steering shaft, bad ball joints, etc.
With the 4 spd top end is near 75-80, loaded would be less than that.
The 22r will rev out well but unlike many 4 cyl engines doesnt need to be at high rpms to make max horsepower, it does it at slightly lower rpms.
Unloaded avg highway spd would be 65-70, this wouldnt be max rpms providing its got factory rear gears.
These trucks were reallly more of a 1/4 ton or a little better.
New coolant can be used to convert the a/c, never tried any generic compressors.
Ethanol is a possibility, youll need to change the carb jets and experiment for the best performance.

 

[coffee_brake]

thanks again. Just got back home from a weekend motorcycle camping trip, so hold fast while I look into what you just said during daylight tomorrow. I DO have the vented windows at least, and there used to be some kind of trim around the shifter boot by the looks of the old carpeting.

I borrowed my riding buddy's generic shop manual from his (long deceased) Land Rover that tells me more about my own truck till my Ebay copy gets here.
I gotta get some seat covers ASAP before my little rescue mutt furs up the good seats.

The throttle cable is so loose and sloppy that I think it maybe be holding up the engine itself. How could I possibly know if the gearing is stock?

When you speak about highway speeds, are you talking "pedal on the floor" type driving? If unloaded is 65-70, then I suppose 60 with my bike in the back might have been about right. Especially since the rims aren't stock. They're some kind of Pacers brand, white with a red/blue pinstripe.

I heard that using the newer coolants would ruin the old compressors but maybe that's not true for these older trucks?


Way too many questions, I know. Sorry about that, and very much appreciate any information, warnings, etc y'all have to offer.

 

[tbplus10]

You can convert the compressors to new refrigerants, but the key is changing all the old "O" rings and evaporator/drier, along with flushing and cleaning the system properly.
Many of the new refrigerants dont cool as well as R12, but theres a few new ones out that are almost equal.
Those wheels sound like what were termed "wagon wheels" those rims rarely had proper off-set/backspacing.
Highway speeds would be drving comfortably and not making the engine scream at high rpms.

 

[coffee_brake]

OK then I do have power steering, at least I'm fairly sure. And now I have locking doors. The new tumblers arrived in the mail today. Next on the importance list is getting the right size wheels on there, but I think I may run out these tires in the meantime.
I'm anxious to find out more about sticking a compressor on here. It's just too hot to think clearly in the summertime without AC.

 

[coffee_brake]

FINALLY got the manual!!! It had the wrong address on it. In the meantime, some kid in a Civic already hit my truck (his fault) and bent up the front bumper, but he brought his tools to my house and helped me straighten in back out.
Now I'm more worried about the weak brakes than anything else, and of course the hard cold starting. Looks like I have a LOT of stuff to check to find the problem, but at least I have the book now. I'm lost without a shop manual.