How to make sweet Long Travel Suspension

[dirtydeeds]

I've broken my driver side lower arm twice, and passenger once, I'm building these to keep it from happening anymore, it's gotten pretty annoying

I built this jig off the stock arm, only it's extended 3.5"

Cut out some sleeves, just need a good clean up on the grinder.

2 1/4" .250wall chromoly outer sleeve

All parts needed for the pivot points at the frame minus the bushings.

Tapered ball joint reemer.

Just need to weld it up.

Viola.

Deep penetration.

All bolted in, just need to cut out the plate.

I'll cut out the plates tomorrow. After it's all tacked together I'll install it on my truck and make sure nothing hits. Everything looks good for now!

I'll post up more pics as I go. For now, have a good night everyone!

 

[dirtydeeds]

IMG]http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc109/keith-carty/LongTravel15.jpg[/IMG]
top and bottom plates

fits perfectly

just need to cut out 9 side plates

Everything is tight and perfect, no gaps!

Just need to cut a couple tack welds and I'll gusset insides.

 

[5.7yotafan]

Well that definately looks strong! Hope it works out for ya!

 

[dirtydeeds]

These DirtyDeedsIndustries.com extended arms are as strong as possible to be able to handle high speed travel across knee high whoops!

 

[dirtydeeds]

So I pretty much worked on my DirtyDeedsIndustries.com Long Travel Suspension all day today. Made huge progress. After cycling the suspension I've gained 2 inches of wheel travel over the Total Chaos Long Travel kit this is replacing. You can see in the pics above that the ball joint bolts hit the chaos arms (in grey) I built my slugs up a little so this problem is eliminated. I pushed my arm forward a little so that I can lean my coil over back a little more which gains almost an inch of up travel.

I also worked on that project in the morning so I was a little worn out when I started on the Long Travel arms. I'll try to put a full 8 hrs in tomorrow, that should finish this side and I'll be able to test drive then focus on other side.

For now, have a good night everyone!

 

[dirtydeeds]

so I posted a link to this thread here:http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/new-member-introductions/89739-long-time-lurker-form-san-diego.html#post506163

 

[dirtydeeds]

I set bump with the rubber stop fully compressed

Used .250 wall tubing to replace old limit strap clevice mounts

put hard brake line on top of frame instead of on side, now there's room for limit strap mount. And I don't have to pull the bypass to adjust the limit strap.

Real Estate is tight under there!

All I gotta do is bleed the brakes and install wheel. Oh ya, and build uppers
So I got the jig for the other side done, pivot points and ball joint slug bolted in, and top/bottom plates cut out. Pretty good progress. Done by midnight, but I started at like nineB)

I should have it boxed in tonight:yes:

 

[dirtydeeds]

So I tacked together the top and bottom plates. I also cut out and tacked together the outer boxed plate. Tomorrow I'll cut tack welds holding bottom plate and cut out and fully weld internal gussets. Maybe solid weld everything. I WILL be done completely and installed before the end of the weekend. Here's the pics:

 

[dirtydeeds]

finally built the uppers:
This jig has a point to clear for the coil bucket and the hose on my coilover, I used 9/16" steel rod.

I tapered the edge of this washer then welded it to the plate. This centers the uniball cup.

cup bolted in and tubing notched. I tapered the top washer to center the cup as well

perfectly notched, no gaps

as you can see, but the heat the penetration is excellent

Done, which would you rather have? 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" sickass arms?

I'm all ready to make a couple more sets:yes:

 

[MD_Weems]

great post

 

[antonino]

I have not seen on the pictures, how it would actually look like in a truck. You should have included the final pic.

 

[danstpierre]

WoW!. But seems like the tools used are not common to laymen. This was made in a shop, and with an expert mechanics hands doing it.

 

[balihaisen]

That was indeed sweet. Time to get dirty I guess.

 

[toyotasrule]

I hate it when this happens. This is a common problem and I'm glad you shared this to help me and other people.

 

[TruckRider]

wow this very great post. your suspension will become more stronger and flexible... but the tools you need to do this type of suspension is not just a regular tools, you need a special tools to make this kind of suspension..

 

[toyotafan]

Thanks for all the work that went into this post.

 

[isaias d]

nice build man I'm trying to do something similar to this. What different size tubing did you use on your 4th and 6th pictures?

 

[jazz]

that is some great fabricating but if a-arms are breaking the vehicle is no doubt being pushed beyond its limit. Now that the a-arm is beefed up the next "weak link" will fail. I got my spare rims and tires for next to nothing from a guy who tried to jump a creek with his '91 yota. The frame buckled at rear of cab and due to his dire financial situation and need for transportation the truck got parted out to the wolves for cheap.. I looked for after market toyota a-arms and see nothing so the part is not substandard IMO. My ot project I opted for stainless steel a-arms because they are stronger, need less room and are dang pretty,,,not that anyone sees them

 

[TacomaTruckParts]

Very nice work.... As for tools, a GOOD welder, plasma cutter, bandsaw, grinder and drill press will get you pretty far. Yeah, a brake press, shear and mill/lathe would be great, but you could do alot with minimum equipment.

Jesse

 

[toyotafan]

This is still a great post!