• FREE SPEECH SOCIAL MEDIA

    If you're looking for a Free Speech Social Media site, check out Blabbook.com

    - NO FACT CHECKING - NO SHADOW BANNING - NO POINT OF VIEW CENSORSHIP

This Girl Needs A Good Electrical Troubleshooter

Kris

New Member
TTC Chicks
I NEED a REALLY good guy to help me out. PLEASE!!!Helloto all! I used to be a Jeep Chic, BUT I have cum over to the Toyota side! I am VERY capable of holding my own, both in life, and with a wrench. I AM A TOYOTA VIRGIN! My new bad-girl is a Black, 1997 Toyoda T100 5spd 4x4 SR5 X-Cab with 220k, but It has a 40k engine/tranny/transfer case that came from Japan, a brand new diff, 6" Rough Country lift and 18" Moto Metal wheels with 35's.

It runs so AWESOME....BUT HERE IS WHERE I NEED A BAD-ASS TECH TO HELP ME.. It is obvious that the truck has been off-road a number of times. Like, When I got it, all the front lights were exploded. NOW here's where it gets tricky. For some reason the battery will NOT charge. Easy right? Nothing is easy for THIS girl!! I have replaced the alternator with a brand new one... TWICE (Had the second new one tested off the truck and it is good) I then replaced the battery leads and cleaned the spots where they ground with a wire brush.

When I test at the alternator, my meter will read 11.9v to 12.2v and falling, the same as the dying battery. I have a suspicion that it could be the PCM because the truck also "clicks" a few times on startup as if the starter is going bad, and idles at 2000 RPM. Also when driven for awhile and I cum ;-) to a stop, the idle will start to bounce but then settle in at 2000 again. (Vacuum leak? Read on...) Im not sure if its related, but also the temp guage and oil pressure guages are both INOP. Also the blower motor for heat/AC and the all the lights behind the controls are INOP. The main dash lights, battery gauge and all other gauges work. When I got the truck all the front lights were blown and broken (got swamped?) I noticed the PCM/ECU is in the passenger kick panel and can easily get wet.

Before I buy one can anyone confirm that I'm on the right track, or tell me something else to check first? I am also having a REALLY hard time finding a ECM. Thecomputer thats in it is a 5VZ 4x4 MT and says 89661-34290 & 175000-9071 12v on it.... IM PULLING MY HAIR OUT!! MASTER TOYOTA TECH'S PLEASE HAVE MERCY ON ME!!!! I NEED YOU BAD!
 

Attachments

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
So it's running fine it's just not charging? How long does it take for the battery to lose life?
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
The clicking you hear is just the starter not being able to get juice. Have you swapped out batteries? I know that's level 1 tech but you can get a bad battery, even off the shelf every once in a while.
 

Kris

New Member
TTC Chicks
So it's running fine it's just not charging? How long does it take for the battery to lose life?
If fully charged it takes 40m to 1hr as long as I dont have the lights or radio on...I ordered an ECM yesterday. I cannot think of any other reason besides the "Exciter wire" that tells the alternator to charge...???
 

Kris

New Member
TTC Chicks
The clicking you hear is just the starter not being able to get juice. Have you swapped out batteries? I know that's level 1 tech but you can get a bad battery, even off the shelf every once in a while.
It "clicks" intermittently. Sometimes not at all. This happens even when the battery is charged.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
Yeah, this is a break in your charging circuit for sure, I had something similar once due to a deteriorating battery cable and simply replacing it fixed the issue. I tended to go upwards of maybe 4 hours before battery was dead, but similar.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
Sometimes a simple image will help identify the issues. You've got a problem with one of the following including possibly the battery, alternator (checked), wires/cables, regulators, ignition (I've see issues with sudden-death shutoff before in late 80's and early 90's Toyota Hilux trucks where the ignition switch goes faulty ... and it is part of the system ... just never seen it cause a problem with charging.

 

jazz

Mechanic
100 Posts
You have already load tested battery to eliminate the possibility of faulty battery?
 

Kris

New Member
TTC Chicks
Sometimes a simple image will help identify the issues. You've got a problem with one of the following including possibly the battery, alternator (checked), wires/cables, regulators, ignition (I've see issues with sudden-death shutoff before in late 80's and early 90's Toyota Hilux trucks where the ignition switch goes faulty ... and it is part of the system ... just never seen it cause a problem with charging.

Thanks! I got a chance to start turning wrenches again yesterday and.... I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! THANKS TO your schematics! Turns out there were two problems. First, I found about 10 inches back from the alternator the 3 wires that come from the pigtail were melted together. There was a 12v a 12v ignition and the exciter wire. They looked like they had been stripped by the previous owner and tested at one point. Never the less, that caused the 15a "ENGINE" fuse under the dash to go bad. It didn't LOOK bad, it tested bad. Anyone else reading this TEST YOUR FUSES! Visual inspections can be deceiving! After I separated the wires, taped them up and replaced the fuse.....IM RUNNING AND CHARGING!! Thanks @MuddyTacoma and @toyotafan I appreciate the help! Now Im off to figure out why my oil pressure and temp guages dont work, and why I idle at 2k and get "idle bounce" when decelerating....
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
Glad you got it working, sometimes it's the simplest of things. A previous owner probably had an alarm that got its juice right from those wires and when they removed that unit it probably thinned them out quite a bit.
 

toyotafan

Toyota Truck Club Founder
Staff member
1000 Posts
Hey @Kris did this solution hold up for you? Let us know please, love to hear updates on these projects.
 

MuddyTacoma

Mechanic
1000 Posts
Thanks! I got a chance to start turning wrenches again yesterday and.... I FOUND THE PROBLEM!! THANKS TO your schematics! Turns out there were two problems. First, I found about 10 inches back from the alternator the 3 wires that come from the pigtail were melted together. There was a 12v a 12v ignition and the exciter wire. They looked like they had been stripped by the previous owner and tested at one point. Never the less, that caused the 15a "ENGINE" fuse under the dash to go bad. It didn't LOOK bad, it tested bad. Anyone else reading this TEST YOUR FUSES! Visual inspections can be deceiving! After I separated the wires, taped them up and replaced the fuse.....IM RUNNING AND CHARGING!! Thanks @MuddyTacoma and @toyotafan I appreciate the help! Now Im off to figure out why my oil pressure and temp guages dont work, and why I idle at 2k and get "idle bounce" when decelerating....
Melted wires is never a good thing. Wonder if this will hold up or if there was an underlying additional cause that made that happen in the first place.
 

Related Content You Might Like:

Top