Recent content by jimmyjim

is that engine the timing chain type, or the serpentine belt kind? in either case the timing can be off, but the repair/replacement is a little different. refer to the haines manual, or see if you can find a copy of the toyota shop manual. its worth having, even if you dont intend to do the work...

sounds like valves need re-seating and valve guide seals replaced. but head has to come off for that, so new head, intake and exhaust gasket set. also check cam clearances. a guy who can do it, great. and depending on how long since its been done, replace timing chain gears and guides.

that manual transmission argues strongly for keeping it. so does the clean body. newer trucks will be harder to find with manual. and there will be a lot more computer stuff in a newer one, making it harder to work on at home. i like simple easy to fix old school stuff. even my wood working...

google local upholstery shops. you can get any custom fabric or leather at verious price points from poly to rolled and scrolled. and you will get the satisfaction of supporting local artisans.

ditto. stay within the spec limits. getting a moving violation citation gets very expensive in a great big hurry.

loud knock after running hot. 1. run a compression check. 2. drop the pan, and examine (plastigauge) the rod and main bearings. these two things will tell you a lot about the condition of your engine. 3. put a timing light on it, and see how steady the timing is. if the timing jumps around a...

when i first bought my 85 toypu i had a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking fluid right at the fire wall and down between the floor mat where i couldnt see it. had to replace the master cylinder 3 times before i got one that didnt leak. however yours sounds more like a clutch...

there is a two wire lead from the igniter/coil to the magnetic pickup in the distributor. it has a connector in line. sometimes, due to the engine bay heat, over the decades, the copper lead inside the insulation becomes brittle and cracks, leading to erratic ignition. also, this sounds a lot...

have fun dudes, sounds like you are going for best of show.

and if it really bothers you, get some rubber electricians tape, (not vinyl) wash the boots off with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner, dry and wrap them with the tape, then grease them. i am not aware of any place that sells new boots, and even if you get some you will have a heck of a time...

yes, keep them well greased, but dont worry too much. dirt and grit have to get past the extruding grease to get into the joint. so dont keep wiping off the excess. my 85 toy hilux has had torn boots for decades, but the idler arm bushing with no boot is the part that wore out, not the tie rod...

glad you got it sorted out. have some awsome drives, and keep on trucking.

tighten it down slowly. when it starts to get to the point where the wheel doesnt want to turn easy, then back it off just enough that you can spin the wheel with ease, but not so much that it wobbles. you might want to do this two or three times just to get the hang of it.

decent video. but, it would have been nice if they had done a good inspection of the bearings and races to show what defects look like. also, if you are not replacing brake pads, you can take the caliper and its retainer as a unit so you dont have to bleed the brakes. but then you need to know...

amazing.